I really ought to have a play and see if I can find a setting that'll anneal the steel. Thinking ramp down, long pulse and fairly low power (and wide beam) - but enough to get it past the transition point.
That's the joy of this stuff - if something isn't quite right for what you want, you can redo it until it is. These are being used in stone setting classes near me, so they sit on the benches in sets.
Considerably less involved than the OP's hone, but still potentially useful - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4832009
I'm not sure about things going completely digital - there's still a huge difference between carving a piece of wax and sculpting a 3D object on a 2D screen (or even with VR).
The HEA is mostly focused on traditional hand push, although obviously a few members have powered kit. I nearly got myself lynched for showing up to an event wearing an Airgraver T shirt....
I pulled apart a malfunctioning clone (not mine) for amusement recently; the rotary valve kept...
As a caveat, I'd say never, ever buy from Cousins. If you hit any problems - damage in transit, for example - they will deny any responsibility for anything. Speaking as an ex-customer.
https://grseurope.com/ do GRS kit (although the prices aren't nice); Cooksongold & H S Walsh in the UK do...
Somewhere around I have a copy of Checkering & Carving Gunstocks by Monty Kennedy. Been a while since I read it and I was more interested in the checkering than the carving at that point.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Checkering-Carving-Gunstocks-Monty-Kennedy/dp/0811706303
Chew the end first & nobody will try to use it to eat :)
Another one (courtesy of Jason Marchiafava) is to take the eye off a needle and then use a cheap plastic propelling pencil to grip it.
I've got some pin vice ends set in GRS Thermoloc handles; there's no reason something similar couldn't be done with a length of dowel instead. Donors looked like these -
That said, I often use a length of 2mm silver steel (similar to drill rod) in a clutch pencil as a scribe.
Follow-on question - in soft metals, like silver, I tend to go quite deep. It's how I was taught in hand push, anyway; my thinking is that in general fine shading & the likes won't last long on silver, so you want the cuts to be visible a decade or so down the line, even with heavy use.
Is...
It's not plating, it's anodising. Entirely different process (and in many ways far simpler than plating). Brush anodising of reactive metals is fairly well known in many circles.
And I do brush plating too.
Try it.
A couple of tools might be useful for cleanup - hisage, for one; small EDM stones (since Scotch stones are a swine to source these days), some of the small ceramic pencil-lead rods...
If this is going on a sword, are you fitting seki-gane?