beware: the watch "blank" my be deceiving when you cut it. it may cut rather easy for you. if you do a quality watch, you'll likely find it very hard to cut.
dani: i've never done this. it's rather simple to do. you buy the correct resin, mix, and pour over the object you wish to duplicate. a "dam" or some other way must be used to keep the resin where it belongs. it may be possible to perhaps brush the resin on the part. there may be tips on this...
good, cheap, and with a finish not needing a lot of fuss. your cutting looks rather consistent. that's a good thing. just curious why you left the 4 spines without a bit of detail. practice is vital. you show one need not waste money on practice plates.
the idea of giving a prospective client a quality print of the proposed work is an absolute xcellent idea. this can save confusion and avoids an unhappy customer. that, then makes sense to add all the tiny details. when i first started, i made actual engraved scroll styles and border effects on...
buy and sell classified adds are for tools, equipment, fixtures, and gadjets that make work easier. nobody i know of has sold engravings here. one exception-- you can make castings of a particular piece of work and sell in the classified section. the castings come under the heading of " a study...
dani: i used to use an app called, "ticonderoga". it had a built in eraser. i later switched to a mechanical app called " scripto .3mm. seriously, your work is quite nice. i just have trouble wrapping my head around the way you achieve the results.
i'm little help here as i agree with mitch. my transfers had little beyond the basic spine layout. all the rest was just done on the "fly" as some would say. i think results were more spontaneous that way. for me to follow all those xtra lines would be drudgery. i truly hope you find an easy...
my laser is an epilog 30 watt. the table is 18 x 24 " it has a circular fixture that will accept all manner of curved objects. i could earn a small fortune doing wine glasses and such-- but no joy doing that kinda stuff.
i think you may have a focus problem. if collimation is perfect the lines shouldn't be that wide. aligning the lenses and mirrors on my machine takes quite a bit of trial and error but the results are worth the effort. i never measured my lines but i think they're around .005" or so. also...
i shot competitive as well as combat pistol for almost 50 years. i found by making the left grip about 1/8" thicker than the right allowed me to get right on target without canting my wrist. my scores/groups improved a good bit.a serious shooter will do better with customizing to suit the hand.
i would guess with a circular index fixture you might sneak this thru. i'd guess the long diagonals would be a tad deeper/wider in the middle than on the ends. i'd first test on a "dummy" piece of pvc or similar just to check on the spacing.
since you're promoting a business i'm not sure if i should delete this or not. perhaps sam could chime in on this. i do feel individual fotos of some of your projects would be acceptable.