I recall seeing some excellent-looking engraved oak leaves done by Weldon Lister. Google Images will bring some right up.
Because the shape of an oak leaf can be convoluted, it can be tough to do a good job, and Weldon's work is exceptional.
Best regards,
Doug
Hi Dani,
The issue might be the relative softness of the 925. A number of sterling alloys can be made harder with a heat treatment, surprisingly. There are different "recipes" for different alloys, and some won't harden. One I've used recommends 600 degrees F for 1 hour. You might check with...
Maybe daub it with Plasticine (an oil-based modeling clay). It will leave a slightly greasy surface & will knock back reflection. Also, you can make a pounce bag filled with baby powder and it will smooth out the greasy surface with a matte white one.
Late addition!
Due to a surge in interest in our engraving class, we've added another 5-day session starting the week of April 27th. Everything else is the same as in the original post.
Thank you,
Doug
Bump.
A couple seats left for the 5-day class that starts this coming Monday. If you can pull the trigger and get to CA by Monday, you'll have a great week of engraving!
Thanks,
Doug
From your initial description, it sounds like it might be an acetone transfer? Just a guess . . . .
With a simple black and white copy from a copier or printer, place the paper image side down on the metal surface. Dab the paper with a pad (paper, cotton ball) wetted with acetone (or in the...
Thanks for the heads up, Tom.
I've had one of your units for a long time and it's been a great machine. For those of you on the fence, now's the time to pull the trigger!
Best regards,
Doug
Here's part of the complication, RDP. You're using a laser-based printer that uses "toner" (fine, black powder). Tom White's solution is designed for liquid ink or an Inkjet type of printer. The compatible printers and inks are of the inkjet family and not the laserjet types of printers.
That...
https://cronite.com
I typed in the web address, but it changed into a hyperlink. Just click on the word above and you'll go to their site. Under "Catalog", you'll need to scroll waaaaaaaaaaaay down to get to engraving steels.
An introductory hand engraving class, Hand Engraving Fundamentals, using Lindsay Classic Airgravers, TrueCenter CamLock PalmControl vises, Leica A60 microscopes and Lindsay sharpening templates.
Course content including engraving and microscope set-up, safety, ergonomics, sharpening, basic cuts...
The two key variables to corral are cutter geometry and vibration.
Make sure the work piece is held as rigidly as possible. As the tip of the graver becomes embedded in hard metal as it is cutting, it is more at risk of cracking/fracturing if some force other than simple resistance is...
The band/ring on the body of the graver is internally threaded and it's purpose is to gradually cover or expose the three holes on the under-side. This is the stroke length adjustment, which is something of a speed change, but more of a power of stroke adjustment.
Close off all of the holes...
Final Bump, ha!
The last one-week "Hand Engraving Fundamentals" workshop for this year is coming up on Sept. 22-26.
Not many seats left, so if you've the inclination, this would be a good opportunity to pull the trigger.
Hope to see you there!
Best regards,
Doug
Yes, your instincts are correct. It is preferred to save the engraving for last, after final polishing. If there is any touch-up needed, just a light touch with some rouge or other high luster compound, not a cutting compound.
If you can't avoid hard soldering, then firecoat of boric acid and...
You'll find that with more experience (and possibly more magnification) you'll be able to handle smaller sizes legibly. Work with what you can handle for now, and as you master that size range, you will find you can do smaller lettering. Takes a while, be patient with yourself and give yourself...