What makes any silver alloy more tarnish resistant is germanium. So I believe any sterling alloy with germanium added will have adequate tarnish resistance. Argentine is nice because it can be heat treated to harden similar to white gold.
You cannot rhodium plate silver without under plating. Usually copper then nickel then rhodium. Plating silver directly with rhodium will ruin your solution. Rhodium solutions very expensive now. As others suggested use other types of sterling. Stuller has one called continuum also.
It depends what you want to use them for. Using it for western style I radius the face slightly and slightly bent. That will make nice curved lines. For Florentine I usually use a bent liner especially on curved surfaces. It's a good idea to swipe the graver along a piece of leather with some...
Try using silver solder instead of 18k, clean very well and flux twice. If you have to use gold solder use one that has a low melting point. Using a bushy flame and patients brushing the flame all over the piece. Also, try soldering it on a charcoal block.
Well it depends on your budget I guess. A few things that come to mind are; a good torch, ring roller, gravers, burs and drills, pliers, optivisor and a sturdy bench and good light. A GRS benchmate is a good investment but not necessary.h
When you start you will know what tools are needed to...
I really don’t know the what the problem is that you’re having. I was having a similar problem a few years back. I had to get cataract surgery and that solved my problem. Maybe ask someone else if they are seeing the same view you are seeing through the scope.
Is there a service out there that would resurface ceramic laps. I have one that got scared. I also have an iron lap that would be nice to have refinished also. The ceramic laps are so expensive it sure would be nice to get them resurfaced instead of buying another. Just curious.
Try warming the item with a hairdryer or heat gun then try to transfer. When I used laser transfers it seemed I had to warm the surface of the metal, especially sterling so the transfer would take.
I agree with silvermon. This type of mold will be more efficient for what you are trying to accomplish. You are doing it right oil, heat and pour. Open ingot molds are much harder to control temperatures. You will usually always get that shrinkage in the middle with an open ingot mold.