120 graver relief cuts

[scott99]

Hi, I use a GRS power hone to sharpen my gravers. When doing the 2.5 degree relief cut my holding fixture (GRS) will not go low enough to accomplish the task, usualy hitting bottom before the graver hits the wheel. I found that The Woodworkers store is selling small black granite surface plates from China for about 25 bucks. Now they are not machine shop quality but are certanly flat to about .001 inch.

I set up a surface plate next to and level with my Power Hone. It sit about 4 inches below the Power hones surface. With this setup working from the surface plate to the Power hone I can get any angle no matter how shallow with ease, and with no chance of interference.

This may be old hat to some and a help to others. I hope it solves a problem for someone.

scott99

 

[Sam]

Are you saying you can't set the sharpening fixture's toolpost angle between 0° and 5° for approximately 2.5°? :thinking:

 

[scott99]

No the fixture will set at any angle desired, but when putting the fixture on the power hones "deck" the fixture hits the "deck" before the graver touches the hone plate., just a matter of too much diameter on the fixture or not enough height to the sharpening plate. I am not using the QC holder, just the standard one.

scott99

 

[scott99]

Sorry I should have said I use the Dual Angler GRS fixture. The diameter of the fixture will not allow for such low degree cuts when used on th hones deck.

scott99

 

[nhcowboy1961]

Hi Scott, I do use the QC holders for my 120, but i may know what's happening for you. If you turn the "pole" part of the stand to the side, you will be able to clear the base of the stand and have the head of your graver flush to the lap on the power hone and not hit the base of the stand first. Try it so that the pole is to the right and the longest part of the rectangular base is to the left. Just try different turns of the base of the stand and you should be ok. Either that or shim up the base higher with some practice plates, a power hone lap wheel, or something flush and level-you'll get it
Paul Kelleher

 

[scott99]

Hi,I thank you all for your help. But with my Dual action fixture the silver steel portion that slides over the shaft hits the base of the shaft (the base plate of the shaft itself) before the tool comes to the top of the hone plate. When the holder has a blank in it and is set to 2 degrees and the fixture is then placed on the power hone deck(the flat on top next to the hone plate) the graver is still about .200 away from the top of the hone itself. No amount of shimming will do anything but make this condition worse. So I developed a way to use a small surface plate to lower the fixture down from the power hone deck and still have repeatability. I appreciate the help but I apparently cannot describe the condition properly or the newer fixture does not match up with older power hone I have, I thought this would be a common problem but apparently it is not. Anyway the system works for me so again thanks. One last thing the fixture is not put together wrong or put on upside down, the silver steel portion is round so no matter what way one puts it on the shaft is still hits the base plate.

scott99

 

[Sam]

Take a picture, Scott. I've sharpened untold numbers of 120s with the Dual Angle and Powerhone and have never encountered this issue. I'm glad you solved the problem, but I'd still like a photo so I can understand what's going on. Something's not making sense to me.

 

[Sam]

Here's a shot of my dual angle with the toolpost angle set at 2.5°. As you can see, it's not bottomed out on the base. There's about 1/2" of travel left.

 

[scott99]

Hi, sorry no photos, no camera right now. But I do notice that you have a ceramic stone on top of another plate. I am guessing the quick change plate from GRS, if you remove one of the two plates there goes your half inch. I really thank you for all you help and concern. The way I am doing it works very well for me and I thought it was a common problem so I would share my solution but I seem to be the only one with the problem in the first place. Seeing your set up(with the quick change plate if thats what you have there) would also solve my "problem". I may get that system as it would raise up the hone plate.

Thanks again

scott99

 

[Sam]

Ok, that explains it. Personally, I think the quick change plate is a great upgrade for an old Powerhone. Sure makes for fast wheel swapping when sharpening.

 

[GTJC460]

I have the same problem with an older power home I use at work. Basically without the qc modification to the power hone it bottoms out at around 12' post angle.

I have a newer hone in my basement studio with the qc wheel adaptor and this issue is not there. It adds about a 1/2" of height to the wheels, which makes this problem disappear.

 

[scott99]

Thanks

Hi, I now know that my "problem and solution" are taken care of with the QC wheel adaptor. But I want to thank you all for the help you sent me.I didn't even put the QC adaptor in the equation. I have had my Power Hone for many years and in the old days they didn't have the QC plate. I was using it to make and sharpen the tools I use for Netsuke carving, when I started to engrave I bought the Dual Angle fixture and without the QC plate they don't match up. I will be sending for a QC plate today.

Thanks again

scott99 :hammer:

 

[monk]

i use the "old" grs power hone & holder. a shim here & there has always worked for me when needed.

 

[nhcowboy1961]

I never did buy a quick change pate but use my power hone like it has one. It's been so long since I bought my power hone but I believe I just removed a rubber washer or something, thinking that was better I have no play in the wheels and can remove them while they're still spinning. Maybe I found a work around but it seemed to make sense.