Another Scroll

Andrew Biggs

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Hi Bill

That is much better!!!

But :)

The background removal probably needs to be a little deeper................and/or the stippling needs to be less heavy. Turn the speed right up to about 55 spm and then very lightly stipple so you don't throw the background up like a moon crater. Just remember when you are stippling you are displacing metal so that hole that you make the metal has to go somewhere and the only place it can go is out and up. So go lightly with the stippling.

Your scroll design is much better as well but still needs attention. Keep going on the practice plates till it all starts falling into place...............and then go back to a knife.

Cheers
Andrew
 

unclejim1955

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Spanish Fork, Utah
Bill's practice plate

Hi Bill,
Here are my suggestions based on advice I have received. The first is from a wise engraver in Michigan who told me not to create background, create scroll. You can see in my sketch that I have the leaves closer and bigger. By only drawing in the backbones and then free-handing the leaves with your graver, these can be even closer together. The less background you have, the less you need to remove. As the notes in the sketch say, try to make your shade lines start as hairlines and get progressively wider and try not having them run side by side, but rather flow to one termination point at the very beginning of the leaf. Looking at them under the scope, they will seem much too wide at termination, but not when viewed with the eye. Hope this helps.
Jim
 

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billrice@charter.net

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You guys are great. Andrew again thanks for the input I will apply this information to my next engraving. Jim that is also good advice especially on leaving a little background in my design I had allot to cut. One of the hardest things I have tried to learn is to take a defined area and then fill it with a design and this was one of the hardest designs for me. I know that for you guys it is probably simple but to hand draw a double end scroll with leaves is really tough. My goal was to draw the scroll close to the outside edges and make them meet as they curve to the center. As you can see I got a little blublulous on the large scroll. I am going to apply what you have said and also I am going to design and cut some scrolls into different shapes.
I have to tell you that I really appreciate your taking the time to reply back to me and give me this great advice. I look forward to being a good engraver one day and If that ever happens I will owe allot of it to all those who have spent time with me in their studios and those who have given me great advice and direction on the engraving forums.

Thanks again
 

Andrew Biggs

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A good way to test the background is to run some 2000 grit (wrapped around a file or stone) lightly over the plate.................if you start rubbing out the background stippling then it isn't deep enough. After a while you'll see how deep you need to go and not use the sandpaper.

Cheers
Andrew
 

billrice@charter.net

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Very good idea. I am also going to spend some time on making some different size flats to remove the background. I was using a 120 graver mostly and then a small round however I do believe that my depth problem comes from the tight corners also along the edges I lost some of the leaf trying to get in and clean out the background in those tight spots. I am going to apply all that you tell me and hope I can improve. Everyone have fun at the FEGA show. I am going to make it a point to go next year so I can talk to all of you in person.

Thanks for the advise.
 

Andrew Biggs

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With the flats I have found that the pre-made scorper flats work well for softer metals. GRS sells them and they are cheap enough.

When it comes to some of the stainless metals I use Glensteel square gravers and shape them up. I find that the Glensteel edge lasts longer than the scorpers.

Cheers
Andrew
 

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