Mario Sarto
Elite Cafe Member
And yes, there's a reason I know that.
Steve, do you have also experience with the Urethane Die Cup & Flat Die Set? Where is the difference in use (yes, it is flat)?
Bracelet design
- Thread starter Arnaud Van Tilburgh
- Start date
Steve, do you have also experience with the Urethane Die Cup & Flat Die Set? Where is the difference in use (yes, it is flat)?
KCSteve
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Steve, do you have also experience with the Urethane Die Cup & Flat Die Set? Where is the difference in use (yes, it is flat)?
No - unfortunately I don't have the room (physical or financial) for a press.
Andrew Biggs
Moderator
Hi Mario
The urethane die & cup allows you to bend the bracelets smaller in diameter for smaller wrists. But you also need an extra die and file it down to size to suit.
You can also acheive the same result by melting the metal in the normal cup and adjusting it to suit.
If you were doing a lot of this type of work on a commercial basis then it would pay to have 3 cups and dies. Large, medium and small so you don't have to constantley adjust them.
Cheers
Andrew
The urethane die & cup allows you to bend the bracelets smaller in diameter for smaller wrists. But you also need an extra die and file it down to size to suit.
You can also acheive the same result by melting the metal in the normal cup and adjusting it to suit.
If you were doing a lot of this type of work on a commercial basis then it would pay to have 3 cups and dies. Large, medium and small so you don't have to constantley adjust them.
Cheers
Andrew
Mario Sarto
Elite Cafe Member
That is a good tip, thank you, Andrew!
Mario
Marcus Hunt
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Arnaud, you talk about colouring/ oxidising the Ti, how do you do this?
Arnaud Van Tilburgh
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Yes Marcus I tried to colouring/ oxidising the Ti, but I didn't come out the way I wanted, so I removed the blue.
I don't have the right equipment to colouring it properly, the best way doing that is like Santos explained it in his tread.
Most of the time I do it using a torch /flame to ad a blue color.
The way Santos does is more precise
arnaud
I don't have the right equipment to colouring it properly, the best way doing that is like Santos explained it in his tread.
Most of the time I do it using a torch /flame to ad a blue color.
The way Santos does is more precise
arnaud
Gemsetterchris
Elite Cafe Member
Have you tried Zirconium?
Apparently you can anodise that with electrical voltage and it gives a different colour.
With some heat it oxidises the surface with a sapphire hard black coating apparently.
I know this as an aquaintance of mine in Birmingham makes ti & Zirkonium rings, though he is more of an engineer and lathes rings from solid bar stock
http://www.geti.cc
Apparently you can anodise that with electrical voltage and it gives a different colour.
With some heat it oxidises the surface with a sapphire hard black coating apparently.
I know this as an aquaintance of mine in Birmingham makes ti & Zirkonium rings, though he is more of an engineer and lathes rings from solid bar stock
http://www.geti.cc
Arnaud Van Tilburgh
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Finally I will pick up the GRS bender on Monday as they didn't have one in stock.
Have to practice first before bending the bracelet that is on my bench now for some weeks.
arnaud
Have to practice first before bending the bracelet that is on my bench now for some weeks.
arnaud
Arnaud there's a web site "reactive metals.com". If that's not it 'google' reactive metals.
They have been in business for a long time and deal in unusual metals. It might be a good source for coloring techniques etc. They seem to be helpful folks.
In interest of full disclosure I know next to nothing about 'Ti' but I thought these people might be helpful.
Kevin P.
They have been in business for a long time and deal in unusual metals. It might be a good source for coloring techniques etc. They seem to be helpful folks.
In interest of full disclosure I know next to nothing about 'Ti' but I thought these people might be helpful.
Kevin P.
Arnaud Van Tilburgh
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Finished
Okay, finally I got my first bracelet bended. I had to wait for the GRS tool as they where run out of stock. I also ordered the optional Urethane Die Cup and Flat Die set, as for this bracelet I did not want to form it convex.
So I cut out a blank of the same size in Titanium, used the same sandpaper to finish it. I used it to practice using the GRS Metal Former. To be sure no scratches would damage the engraving I used chamois leather I laid on the Urethane Die Cup.
That way I found out it is a great tool I will use much more now, easy to use and no damage to the engraving.
I know I sounds a bit exiting, and I am. I didn’t want to ruin my engraving but had to bent the bracelet, and it came out perfect like I wanted to be.
And before you ask why in Titanium, first of all there are no hand engraved Titanium bracelets as far as I know, and the Titanium will hold the shading much longer than silver or gold. Also the tension of the metal makes it possible to open the “gap” a 1000 times without deforming the shape of the bracelet. On top, when wearing it, it is light in weight.
I’m sure I did a great job on this, and I like the bracelet a lot. I also had to sign the bracelet as I want to sell it. Perhaps my price 2200 euro needs that signature, I have to find out. If I would have made it in gold it would be more expensive, so now it is only the work one pays.
I also have to thank all of you that have given me good support making this possible. I never could imagine I ever was able to make such a “piece of art”. So all you “the gurus” thank you for the class I’m still having here in the Café. I hope by showing this, you will find some strength to go on by giving good advices to novices, as once in a while there will be someone who knows how to use your advises.
arnaud
Okay, finally I got my first bracelet bended. I had to wait for the GRS tool as they where run out of stock. I also ordered the optional Urethane Die Cup and Flat Die set, as for this bracelet I did not want to form it convex.
So I cut out a blank of the same size in Titanium, used the same sandpaper to finish it. I used it to practice using the GRS Metal Former. To be sure no scratches would damage the engraving I used chamois leather I laid on the Urethane Die Cup.
That way I found out it is a great tool I will use much more now, easy to use and no damage to the engraving.
I know I sounds a bit exiting, and I am. I didn’t want to ruin my engraving but had to bent the bracelet, and it came out perfect like I wanted to be.
And before you ask why in Titanium, first of all there are no hand engraved Titanium bracelets as far as I know, and the Titanium will hold the shading much longer than silver or gold. Also the tension of the metal makes it possible to open the “gap” a 1000 times without deforming the shape of the bracelet. On top, when wearing it, it is light in weight.
I’m sure I did a great job on this, and I like the bracelet a lot. I also had to sign the bracelet as I want to sell it. Perhaps my price 2200 euro needs that signature, I have to find out. If I would have made it in gold it would be more expensive, so now it is only the work one pays.
I also have to thank all of you that have given me good support making this possible. I never could imagine I ever was able to make such a “piece of art”. So all you “the gurus” thank you for the class I’m still having here in the Café. I hope by showing this, you will find some strength to go on by giving good advices to novices, as once in a while there will be someone who knows how to use your advises.
arnaud
Last edited:
Cloudy
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
exquisite!
Willem Parel
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
A Masterpiece Arnaud!!!! congratulations with the result.
Yvan
Member
Congratulation Arnaud, beautiful.
Yvan.
Yvan.
Gemsetterchris
Elite Cafe Member
I think Arnaud prefers using grade 1.
Arnaud Van Tilburgh
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Cloudy, Willem, Kevin, Yvan and Chris, thank you for liking my work.
Kevin, indeed I use Ti grade1, I mentioned it a few times perhaps in another tread.
arnaud
Kevin, indeed I use Ti grade1, I mentioned it a few times perhaps in another tread.
arnaud
Marcus Hunt
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Wow, that's really great Arnaud. Now for the ultra nit-picky bit. You haven't done anything 'wrong' as such but if you look at the way the scroll grows on the upper left the spine of the scroll it's going from is closed. If you'd left it open you'd have given yourself the tail of a 'starter scroll' which you could then work from. This can give you other opportunities and is one of the ways you can bend the rules, e.g. have a larger scroll growing from a smaller one. I once explained this to Barry Lee Hands and he was full of enthusiasm when he'd grasped the concept.
As I said, you have done nothing wrong with your design but I'm just giving you a tip to add another string to your bow in future. Well done and thanks for sharing.
As I said, you have done nothing wrong with your design but I'm just giving you a tip to add another string to your bow in future. Well done and thanks for sharing.
Arnaud Van Tilburgh
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Marcus, thank you for taking the time.
I'm trying to figure it out what you mean.
Scroll B is growing from Scroll A now.
Do you mean to make Scroll C as a new starting Scroll and the leave where iw wrote "Scroll C" on would have been part of the new starting scroll and facing the other direction as Scroll B than would have been the new starting scroll?
would have looked almost the same than, except for the leave with with Scroll C written on.
arnaud
I'm trying to figure it out what you mean.
Scroll B is growing from Scroll A now.
Do you mean to make Scroll C as a new starting Scroll and the leave where iw wrote "Scroll C" on would have been part of the new starting scroll and facing the other direction as Scroll B than would have been the new starting scroll?
would have looked almost the same than, except for the leave with with Scroll C written on.
arnaud
Marcus Hunt
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
That's the one Arnaud.
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