Buying the right band saw blade

[dave gibson]

I bought a bench top bandsaw to use to cut out belt buckles and tattoo machine frames and other small projects, mostly nickel and whatever else I can cut with it. It's a 62" blade and a 24TPI was recommended for cutting metal. I can't find one locally and when I look it up on line I find more variables like how wide, type of blade, hook blade, scallop blade, etc.

What else do I need to know to get the right blade?

 

[jerrywh]

I don't know how thick your metal is but if you intend to cut metal 1/16" or thinner a 24tpi. blade will not work. You need no less than three teeth in the metal at all times when cutting. That is the rule.

 

[takedeadaim]

I have purchased my blades from this place for several years. Their staff is helpful in assisting you in choosing the correct blade and they have technical documents on their site at this location. https://www.bandsawbladesdirect.com/technical-documents/

My experience with saw blades has been quality blades not only cut better but last longer and in turn end up being more economical. I have had the same blade on my horizontal band saw for cutting structural and general stock for machining for a year. Its not running all day every day but its not yet showing signs of getting dull, (not cutting straight, heat buildup, poor chip formation). I think if it just stopped working tomorrow I would not hesitate put the spare on and order a couple more.

 

[dlilazteca]

I make knives, ill up load some pictures of the table top band saw, heavy duty one that i own, its basically a hand held band saw that has been retrofit in a swag (brand name) table, its a work horse will cut anything and its the perfect size if your short on space.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

 

[monk]

there's a local man in my area that sharpens saw blades. he also creates any length/width/tpi bandsaw blade. perhaps there is such a guy in your area. the yellow pages may work for you.

 

[tdelewis]

I don't remember where I got my blades, but I went on-line, found a company and called them. Told them what I wanted to cut and they made suggestions. Very pleased. If you check how people rate the company you will get a good idea if they are good or not. I ordered by phone the blades they suggested. Bottom line, talk to the people who are experts and blades are their business.

 

[Brian Marshall]

In 40+ years of making sterling buckles, I've never once cut one out on a band saw...

Too many variables that don't fit with the precision I can get with an ordinary German made jewelers saw.

Rope edges, scalloped edges, heart shapes, and blanks that are engraved and then the edges cut to fit/match the engraving.

Perhaps it would work for straight rectangles, but that's not what we sell much of - and when we get an order for one I would use a shear anyway. Faster & cleaner edges.

A well made German jewelers saw will cost you under $20. It does take some skill to operate one...


Brian

 

[John B.]

In 40+ years of making sterling buckles, I've never once cut one out on a band saw...
A well made German jewelers saw will cost you under $20. It does take some skill to operate one...
Brian

As Brian says they can be easily cut with a Jewelers saw and go very quick if you cut the buckle outline shape with an onglette graver.
The saw blade will follow the graver line like a train on rails.

 

[dogcatcher]

Which saw do you have?

 

[tdelewis]

I agree with Brian. I would never think of cutting silver for a buckle on a band saw. When I cut out a blank for a buckle that doesn't have a rope edge I first go around the pattern with a 90 graver. Then I soften some Burrlife with some Tap Magic and rub it into the engraved line. That way my saw blade is always lubricated and it will follow the line because it is cutting in a valley.

 

[tdelewis]

Perhaps I should explain more. If you are cutting 16 gauge silver I would suggest a no. 3 or 4 blade for your jeweler's saw. I would think that is should have at least 35 teeth per inch or more, but less than 50. Most trophy buckles are made from 16 gauge. I haven't made a hollow ranger buckle but I think they use 18 gauge for those. The same blade would work for both.

 

[tdelewis]

I'd like someone to correct anything I just posted. Someone might have better advice.

 

[silverchip]

I would absolutely use a bandsaw for cutting buckle blanks out of 16 or 14 or even 18 ga. who wants to sit there for a half hour running an itty bitty jewelers saw blade to hack out a buckle that you are going to have to file or sand the edge on and then polish anyway. as for collecting the filings ect there are some really nice little tabletop models that can fit in a flat cardboard box to catch the filings. as a matter of fact, I have some waterjetted out cause I can't cut them out with a jewelers saw for the same money. I suppose you can say the same thing for bandsawing them out as well!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[dave gibson]

I want to thank everyone for some great advice, it can get real costly doing the trial & error method. Let me just explain this is a small project for making a few more small projects. The band saw will be for cutting small pieces out of bigger pieces that would real clumsy to handle in my small space, mostly straight cuts, any detailed curves I'll cut out with a jewelers saw and files. I'm still a hobbyist trying to make a little money to support my habit, I'll buy a sheet of metal and make 5 different projects of different sizes and shapes. It will be easier for me to cut out the small piece then hand work it into shape, that's about it.

Dogcatcher, it's a Craftsman 9" , 3299

 

[Brian Marshall]

<"The band saw will be for cutting small pieces out of bigger pieces that would real clumsy to handle in my small space, mostly straight cuts, any detailed curves I'll cut out with a jewelers saw and files.">

Look into a proper shear for those straight cuts. One that will handle 12 or 14 gauge and at the very least 6" x 12" sheet stock...


B.

 

[dogcatcher]

The saw is half your problem, the blade goes to fast. First it is a bandsaw made for cutting wood. Second it is a poor excuse for a bandsaw, I know my wife bought me one for my birthday. Third, the motor is so under powered it barely cuts hardwoods.

What you need is a metal cutting bandsaw, top of the line is the Milwaukee, next is the Grizzly tools version. Last but best bang for the dollar is the Harbor Freight version. I have used a Milwaukee and the Harbor Freight saws, both owned by the same guy. He has the Harbor Freight set up as an upright bandsaw, and the Milwaukee is set up as a chop saw. Search Google for "homemade portable bandsaw stands" then look at the images, lots of ideas some require a welder, others made with nothing but wood and hand tools.

The Grizzly Tools portable comes with the chop saw stand. http://www.grizzly.com/products/Portable-Bandsaw-with-Stand/G8692

Here is a HF portable stand that turns it into an upright bandsaw. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1037556-Portable-Band-Saw-Stand

 

[Jokioliamia]

what brand of blade you are using?