Help please.

Arnaud Van Tilburgh

~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Joined
Oct 3, 2008
Messages
4,221
Location
Belgium
Arnaud, when you refer to 'setter's cement' is that shellac you're talking about?
Kevin P.

Don't know, but sure it is no shellac neater the black one that is often used.
We cal it in general y its colour, mine is light gray.
It can be solved in Thinner very easy.
There is another one that is used for "hammering" plate thei is used in a steel half sphere, but that one does not harden enough.

Just try some that setters use, if they don't use the thermo lock of course.
But most diamond setters don't use the termo lock in Antwerp

arnaud
 
Last edited:

Ron Smith

~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Joined
Apr 6, 2007
Messages
1,455
Hi Jeff,

There is one other aspect to consider, and that is, there are things deserving of the very best work. There are other things that are not.

When you are treading around the perimmeter of technical impossibility, it is best to limit your work to heavier type cuts and styles, etc. Fine work under these circumstances become almost intolerable and frustrating, and judging this isn't always easy. That is where experience comes in. You know, that old school of hard knocks.

So, the point is, adjust your work also to accomodate the difficulty of the materials.

If you want to do your best work, you must do it on materials that will accept less stringent requirements with the least amount of frustration. LOL! The "Old" masters didn't have to deal with these problems and they have all evolved into this in my lifetime, and if you had to cut these metals with the burin you would run screaming naughty things into your rubber room. Heehee.................and........ 40 years of that ain't worth it!!

Once you make that first cut, there is no backing down. Test your materials before you commit, even that is not always totally conclusive. It will give you a clue however on how to stay out of trouble.

I do understnad the need to keep busy however, and taking some of these jobs is only due to that need, and that is where reputation and respect from your clients for your final product helps. It is hard to turn down work in the begining when you need it.

This is somewhat relative and will be solved with time, and is only my two cents on the subject. Just another way of thinking about it, and another tool in the mental developement of the engraver.

Ron S
 

Andrew Biggs

Moderator
Joined
Nov 10, 2006
Messages
5,034
Location
Christchurch, New Zealand
I think another thing that comes into play is our expectations of "how a graver should perform".............we each have different expectations as to what "normal" breakage and dulling of the graver should be.

When I first started engraving 316L stainless watches I thought I would go absolutely mad sharpening every 5 minutes. I tried every graver material and configuration imaginable, different angles, heels, polishing, dubbing, you name it, I did it..........I was looking for the magic configuration to which I promptly discovered..........there is none!!!

Now I think that sharpening every 5 minutes is normal and when I get to cut something a little more pleasant like Sterling silver I'm astonished that my graver is still sharp after a days cutting.

Thanks for all that info Ray. A really interesting read.

Cheers
Andrew
 

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