Question: Microblock XL

Borzzza

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Is anybody using a microblock XL from GRS? It is positined as a good compromise between microblock and standard ball vise.
Is it sturdy enough for engraving? Asking, because in my experience microblock was great for deep relief but for flat surfaces I had to put a lot of effort to keep my engraving surface horisontal and in focus. On contrary, standard block is too heavy for me to tilt it for deep relief, but perfect for traditional engraving.... Hoping to find a perfect all-purpose vise)))


https://www.grs.com/product/microblock-xl/
 

monk

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try using some teflon or other specie of plastic on the ball bottom. you may well find the ball a good deal easier to orient during cutting. other mtls such as leather or paper can alter the drag to just where you like it. cheap fix if it worx. for me, it was always important to have just the right level of drag while cutting.
 

Borzzza

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try using some teflon or other specie of plastic on the ball bottom. you may well find the ball a good deal easier to orient during cutting. other mtls such as leather or paper can alter the drag to just where you like it. cheap fix if it worx. for me, it was always important to have just the right level of drag while cutting.

I am using a piece of flat plastic between the ball and turntable, it helps when engraving flat surface. I mainly have issues tilting the vise for some deeper engraving practice, keeping it at a good angle and rotating for a long time.
Well, I know it’s not the problem of the vise, just I’m not strong enough))))))

When I was in the class for deep relief I was switching between standard block when cutting main lines and microblock for relief cuts.

So I am considering to buy a microblock as second ball or a microblock XL as an all-purpose ball.
 

Doc Mark

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I'm not sure that I fully understand what you are looking for. If I want to keep the work surface to remain horizontal, I put a small sheet of the non-slip, rubberized material used to protect tools. It is often sold as a drawer liner for mechanics metal tool chests. This keeps the ball from tilting but the ball can still be moved to a different angle, if needed. If you find that you are having trouble tilting the standard ball, then a bit of Teflon dry lubricant on the nylon pads within the "rubber tire" will make it very easy to move. (Maybe too easy)
 

papart1

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I have a standard and prefer a leather donut well soaked in silicone. Gotta soak about every 2-2.5 months, its nice slide. Rob
 

papart1

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I might add .....the silicone I use is a spray can from permatex. at almost every auto parts joint.
 

Sam

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personally, i prefer the mass of a heavy engraving vise to the micro block or XL sized vises. The more mass the less vibration. Very important when engraving with hammer & chisel or pneumatic handpieces.
 

monk

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I have a standard and prefer a leather donut well soaked in silicone. Gotta soak about every 2-2.5 months, its nice slide. Rob
tyvm 4 tthat. i have an old leather one i don't use. i'll give that a try
 

Borzzza

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I might add .....the silicone I use is a spray can from permatex. at almost every auto parts joint.

This one? I should be able to find something here, similar from another producer.

Thanks for your idea, will use it)
 

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Borzzza

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personally, i prefer the mass of a heavy engraving vise to the micro block or XL sized vises. The more mass the less vibration. Very important when engraving with hammer & chisel or pneumatic handpieces.

I think with all these tips I’ll find a way to make my standard vise comfortable)) At the end it is more a matter of habit and more practice.
 

papart1

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Borzzza that is exactly the correct one........might take 3-8 coates, depends on feel. Rob
 

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