Palm Control Idle

[allan621]

I was able to purchase a used Lindsay Palm Control yesterday. It runs great and was easy to install. The only question I have is the idle speed. On the classic the idle speed was controlled by a small knob on the air pressure gauge. Here I don't see one and the idle speed is too strong when the air pressure is turned up.

So anyone have an idea what I should be doing to control the idle speed ?

Allan

 

[JJ Roberts]

Allen, The idle speed is a brass nob in front of the rubber handle. J.J.

 

[T.G.III]

clockwise for slower, counter clockwise for faster

 

[allan621]

Thanks guys, I really appreciate this.

Allan

 

[JJ Roberts]

Allen, Don't try to adjust the drive screws. J.J.

 

[allan621]

JJ

Thanks for the tip. When I first got my classic airgraver 25 years ago and Steve was more available for conversation he had to walk me through step by small step to setting it up. And then he talked me through setting up the an air compressor. So when it comes to things like setting the idle I don't do anything before I get expert advice. You and TG are the experts.

I'm such a novice at fixing things I even had a friend come over to help me change a light bulb.

Allan

 

[T.G.III]

Again, what JJ said, there are basically only two user adjustments on the unit, the idle control and the start sensitivity which is the socket head cap screw on the center of the handle near the air inlet.

You might reach out to Steve and see if he'll send you the manual, at some point you're going to need to dis-assemble the tool for cleaning and that information as well as anything else you need to know is included there.

Enjoy.

 

[allan621]

TG

Thanks for the information. But I am so mechanically ignorant it might take me a while to figure out where the socket head cap screw actually is.

Usually I just sent the classic back to Steve for him to clean and make sure everything is working well. I had the classic for about 25 years and sent it back to Steve every five years or so. Each time he made it like new and I didn't have the opportunity to screw it up.

Now this tool unbelievably has never been used. Its as pristine as if it came from Steve. So it should be a while before it needs any attention. And when it does, back to Kearney it goes.

One of the things it came with was a tungsten piston. If you need one send me a private message.

Allan

 

[T.G.III]

Thanks Allan, I purchased the tungsten piston at the same time as the air graver.

 

[allan621]

OK, engraving just silver and gold its something I'll never use. I'll put it on the buy-sell page and see if anyone needs one.

Thanks again for the help

Allan

 

[jamiefeinstein]

OK, engraving just silver and gold its something I'll never use. I'll put it on the buy-sell page and see if anyone needs one.

Thanks again for the help

Allan

Each tungsten piston is machined to very tight tolerances specifically to each hand piece. You may want to check with Steve if you want to use a new piston that didn't get matched to your air graver.
JF.

 

[Atombomb]

I was resurrecting this thread as I started trying out my new to me palmgraver…. it idles really high and adjusting the idle screw doesn’t change the speed. Now, this thing has been sitting up for over 10 years and the idle screw was super tight to move, so I removed it, put a touch of oil on it, and now it will at least move with my fingers. Any ideas?

 

[dhall]

The band/ring on the body of the graver is internally threaded and it's purpose is to gradually cover or expose the three holes on the under-side. This is the stroke length adjustment, which is something of a speed change, but more of a power of stroke adjustment.
Close off all of the holes and this produces the shortest stroke length of the internal piston, and by extension, the highest speed and lightest stroke power - think fine, delicate shade cuts. A side note is that the sound produced is a higher-pitched "buzzing", sort of like a mosquito. As the barrel is turned and more of the holes are opened/revealed, the piston travels further and it takes progressively longer to traverse its path, and does so with more force - a slightly slower speed, but with more "oomph", and a louder, lower-pitched buzz - think heavy stock removal or really tough metal to cut. At the longest stroke, with all 3 holes fully exposed, never unscrew the band more than to just expose the last of the third hole. Running the tool with more than the last hole exposed will cause damage to the tool, as per the instructions.
When correctly set, the idle adjustment screw will allow the tool to slightly "flutter" when held - the feel of the piston oscillating back and forth, but striking without very much force or sound. It should be a soft vibration. If the piston doesn't move, give the handpiece a shake in-line with the long axis of the tool. If the piston still doesn't oscillate, but you can hear and feel it move when shaken, then the idle screw needs to be opened a bit more. At the correct setting, the minor vibration shouldn't cause you to have trouble accurately placing the point of the graver where you want to cut. With the idle set too high, the vibration will have the point dancing around a bit too much.

Best regards,
Doug

 

[Atombomb]

Just got my palm control back from Steve…. even though it has had little if any use in the last 10-15 years, the Louisiana humidity took its toll on the hose and the valves inside the graver, causing it to stick and not allow it to idle down. Steve did a fantastic job and had super fast turn around even with the holidays. So don’t forget to send your tools in for a little tune up every now and then...