Raised gold borders by John Barraclough

John B.

:::Pledge Member:::
::::Pledge Member::::
Nov 9, 2006
Los Angeles area, California.
Marian and Glen.
Here's how I do it, I'm sure others will have different methods.
Bring metal to a decent finish.
Cut the line for the border.
Undercut the the line on both sides, if wide add small teeth in the bottom.
Dress down any metal raised by the undercutting.
Finish the background metal to the desired degree of polish.
Carefully remove any debris or sanding dust from the channel.
Fully anneal the precious metal, gold, silver etc.
Select the precious metal to be 150-160% bulk in respect to the channel.
As in any inlay, make sure that the base material is firmly supported and does not bounce.
Tap in the precious metal using a light hammer or power graver with a lightly textured brass punch.
It is easier to work with the line North and South.
Start at the North and progress South towards yourself.
Use a smooth burnisher on the top of the line to remove the tap-in marks.
Be sure to stay on the raised line and not let the burnisher touch the base material.
Carefully make any trimming cuts required to control any "spread" of the line.
Make any side accent or shadow cuts beside the raised border.
Sit back and admire your handywork!!
Please note and warn your client that raise border work is easily damaged.
It requires extra special care.
Just my way, let's hear from some other folks.
John B.

An after thought to Raised Gold Borders.
Raised gold borders are the last work to be completed on an engraving project IMO.
The channel can be cut ahead of time during the general engraving.
But the raised gold should be the last work installed on the piece.

John B.

Hi Marian.
The borders go in very easily using 24K.
If you want a little more shine to the gold try 22K.
It goes in quite well, work hardens a little faster, about like .999 Silver.
The top of the gold line becomes a little work hardened from the tapping in.
I use a small, fine Gesswein die maker stone to remove this before burnishing.
Stay strictly on the top of the line and don't hit the base material.
Then burnish the top of the line in the long direction with a steel burnisher.
The burnisher can be any piece of very hard, polished steel.
Many of the small commercial burnishers will work.
Or one made from a large curved burlap bag needle or shaped, hardened and polished drill rod.
Hope this is some help. Best of luck with your project.
John B.
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