special adaptor

monk

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i need an adaptor with a 3/32" square male end and a 1/8" square female end. anybody know where i can get such a creature ?
 

tortlieb@verizon.net

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hi monk, I have noticed that we do not live far apart. I have no idea what you are trying to build but I have an old Jewlers lathe over here that I would be willing to let you borrow. if that would help let me know. I would even meet you 1/2 way. if you want to try to make it
 
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monk

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hi monk, I have noticed that we do not live far apart. I have no idea what you are trying to build but I have an old Jewlers lathe over here that I would be willing to let you borrow. if that would help let me know. I would even meet you 1/2 way. if you want to try to make it
tym a jewelers lathe would not work for this. i gave away a jewelers lathe years ago and still have access to it. the adaptor would allow using a 1/8" square graver in the lindsay classic handpiece. i have a couple ideas that may allow me to make it myself if push comes to shove.
 

SamW

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Hobby shops usually have various sizes of square brass tubing that will insert in steps. I use some to add length to carbide gravers so I can use them much longer. Super glue holds the pieces together as well as the graver inserted in one end. I will see if I have a photo of these. graver extension.jpg

brass tubing same size as graver butted to the end of the graver and held together with one size larger brass tubing and super glue. This has added much time to the life of the tool.
 
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farmer57

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Monk,
The Classic should accept almost any stock that is smaller than 3/32 - I use smaller and even tiny bits (including round) in mine and just tighten the set screw in the 'nose-cone' of the Classic. There are 3 tapped holes there - just pick one and tighten the set screw which should have been provided with the Classic (at least mine did).
 

monk

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Hobby shops usually have various sizes of square brass tubing that will insert in steps. I use some to add length to carbide gravers so I can use them much longer. Super glue holds the pieces together as well as the graver inserted in one end. I will see if I have a photo of these. View attachment 49481

brass tubing same size as graver butted to the end of the graver and held together with one size larger brass tubing and super glue. This has added much time to the life of the tool.
yes, yes, yes ! tyvm 4 that. i should have known this as i have made a heap of custom square brass holders. this all thanks to john baraclaugh. thanks a lot for the suggestion.
 

monk

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Hobby shops usually have various sizes of square brass tubing that will insert in steps. I use some to add length to carbide gravers so I can use them much longer. Super glue holds the pieces together as well as the graver inserted in one end. I will see if I have a photo of these. View attachment 49481

brass tubing same size as graver butted to the end of the graver and held together with one size larger brass tubing and super glue. This has added much time to the life of the tool.
i did find a source of telescoping brass tubing today. thanks to your suggestion, my problem is solved. do you think super glue is better than soldering?
 

Adder

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I have never tried soldering theese tubes, only superglue, and it works for me Monk.
 

SamW

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Solder may be better under hard use but CA is so much easier and has not failed me over several years use.

edit...

On my extended gravers, the one brass piece butts up against the back end of the graver, taking all the blows/shock so there is no shear forces on the CA. If your adapter does not have this and there is shear forces involved, solder would likely be best.
 
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monk

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Solder may be better under hard use but CA is so much easier and has not failed me over several years use.

edit...

On my extended gravers, the one brass piece butts up against the back end of the graver, taking all the blows/shock so there is no shear forces on the CA. If your adapter does not have this and there is shear forces involved, solder would likely be best.
ok. i created 3. i will take a bit of time and solder them. tyvm 4 yer help.
 

Sinterklaas

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Careful when soldering. You don't want to ruin your graver hardness. Or you will have to harden and anneal them again after soldering.
 

monk

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Careful when soldering. You don't want to ruin your graver hardness. Or you will have to harden and anneal them again after soldering.
right you are. in such cases i use a very low temp solder. you can almost use a match to make it flow. i get the stuff from micro mark.
 

John B.

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right you are. in such cases i use a very low temp solder. you can almost use a match to make it flow. i get the stuff from micro mark.
I agree with Monk and use the same solder from Micro Mark.
The heat never travels anywhere near the tip of the graver.
So no chance of softening the graver.
If you are worried, drill graver size blind holes, 1/2" deep into a piece of soft wood 1x2"
Soak the 1x2" in water and set your gravers into the holes, point end down.
Hold the piece of wet wood in a vise.

Melt a drop of solder into each of the tubing holders.
Hold a tube holder in pliers, tease your flame over the holder and the base of the graver.
Seat the tube over the base of the of the graver that is held in the wood.
Done. Leave gravers in the wood for a minuet or two to keep cool.
 
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ByrnBucks

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Hobby shops usually have various sizes of square brass tubing that will insert in steps. I use some to add length to carbide gravers so I can use them much longer. Super glue holds the pieces together as well as the graver inserted in one end. I will see if I have a photo of these. View attachment 49481

brass tubing same size as graver butted to the end of the graver and held together with one size larger brass tubing and super glue. This has added much time to the life of the tool.
Much appreciate the picture and Idea cant wait to get some more life out of a pile of shorties Iv been accumulating. Thanks and have a great day. BB
 

John B.

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Or just keep the business end in a vice. Will ḵeep it cool
Yes, true, that will work if you are just making one graver.
I use the wet wood with holes method because I usually make up a batch of 5-10 gravers at a time.
Like to have spares sharp and ready to go if I get a point break in the middle of an engraving day.
 

Leland Davis

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If you use carbide the heat should not be a problem. Carbide is silver brazed to machine tools without problems.
 

monk

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Monk,
The Classic should accept almost any stock that is smaller than 3/32 - I use smaller and even tiny bits (including round) in mine and just tighten the set screw in the 'nose-cone' of the Classic. There are 3 tapped holes there - just pick one and tighten the set screw which should have been provided with the Classic (at least mine did).
i'm doing this to adapt greater than 3/32" gravers. using john baraclaughs' idea, i've made some extremely tiny gravers from used dental drills. such were great for doing hobos.
 

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