stone setting tools

[KSnyder]

All, I recieved Sam's stone setting dvd for Christmas. I'm guessing the beading tool to set the corners must come in a bunch of different sizes as do the bud burrs & setting burrs. I have the carbide burnisher but need a source for the beading tools.They are different tools from bead punches aren't they? Can someone recommend what size to get for 3-4mm stones?
Sam, that video should be labeled "controlled substance" , it's addictive. Very clear & informative.
Kent

 

[Sam]

Hi Kent. Glad you're enjoying the video. I'd buy a set of beading tools of various sizes. You can buy a set from any jewelers supplier. Not sure what you mean by 'bead punches', but I think you mean the tool for doing a punch-dot background. If so, they are the same tool. Stonesetting is satisfying work and not that difficult to learn if you already have engraving skills. Jim Zimmerman's a hell of a setter. Me, I just play one on TV.

 

[KSnyder]

coulda fooled me! You make it look easy.
Kent

 

[jimzim75]

Hi Kent,
My weapon of choice is a Swiss beader form Gesswien.
http://www.gesswein.com/catalog/search_result_form.cfm?CFID=600387&CFTOKEN=12281472 In the serch box
put Beading Tools and the page will come up.
You can get cash account with them and they send the stuff your going to need.
There are lots of other supply companies for setting tools. Gesswien is the one I deal with
because they always have them in stock and the quality is good. I tend to go through a lot
of them. I resharpen then a little some times, but usually it's cheaper just to get another one.

For your three or four mm stone, I would use a #8 to #10. This is dependant on how
large you form the bead. The beader has to fit over like a cap. Just make sure when your
pushing, that you don't come in contact with the stone. This is controlled by the angle you
push at. I tend to use a looping motion with my hand to give the bead a more three
dimensional look.

 

[Dmitry Martinov]

Absolutely agree with Jim, Swiss quality. I would only add that do not use the same tools for corners forming and background texture. If you are new to stone setting, there is very good way of practice : take the plate of brass (usually it´s like 14Kt gold hardness), drill the holes with different diameter and some syntethic stones like CZ or even made of glass. Which number of beading tool will depend also by shape of graver you are using for rise the corners. IMHO

 

[Gemsset]

I agree with numbers 8 till 10 depending of the size of the beads you've made.

You can also push your beading tool on a small piece of polishing paper so the inner cap becomes very shining. Or you can use a graphite pencil and put the point in the beading tool and then turn a bit around with the pencil. When you use your beading tool on your raised bead, the bead will shine like the sun...

Cheers,

Carl

 

[Magnus Jensen]

Far to big in my opinion.

Everybody seems to agree about the beading tool size, so I have to disagree.
I seldom use that large beading tool sizes. The biggest one is 9 and that is for much bigger stones then 3-4 mm.( Of course there is exceptions regarding customers requests and design etc)

The key thing for me is to let the finished setting to reveal as much of the stone as possibly, so there for I use smaller sizes. If the customer has put a lot of money in to a stone, my Job is to sett it crisp clean and as secure as possible without cover the investment up to much.

And the round part of the bead that is on the crown of the stone is the second thing when it comes to a securely set stone, the main thing of concern should be pinching the girdle of the stone, and if this is done in a good way there is no reason at all to cover the stone with big beads.

Magnus

 

[Mike Cirelli]

I usually make my own, but I always have a stock of 2 thru 6 when I don't have time. I have larger ones but rarely use them. When I choose a beading tool it would depend on how big of a prong I pushed up on the stone. A larger stone would require the prong to be started farther from the stone than a smaller stone. Which means you would be pushing up more metal, and that would require a larger beading tool. You only want to cap off the prong with the beading tool. You can also use old worn cup burs by sharpening the sides on a stone in the flex shaft. If you placed your prong properly and tight against the stone lightly cap off the prong. I'm not in my shop right now and don't pay to much attention to the numbers as much as which one fits. But I would say a 3mm stone a #4 or #5, and a 4mm stone A #6 or #8.
Just my thoughts.
Mike

 

[KSnyder]

Hey Guys, thanks for all the info. Gonna get some cz's and give it a try.
I'm printing out this tread for the archives.
Kent