Here’s the story years ago someone gave me bandsaw shortly there after a friend of mine wanted it I said what do you have to trade that is how I got the 94 so it didn’t cost me anythingI have a Winchester 94 manufactured in 1981 I think I read somewhere that the receivers were made of some casting material and we’re hard to engrave has anyone worked on one have any insight as to What I might be getting into
I always finish with a light coat of clear lacquer. GRS has a product called Nikolas Lacquer. It's made specifically for brass instruments - dries hard and doesn't chip. the keyword here is a LIGHT COAT. I also apply several coats of Renaissance Wax to the entire gun.
The first thing to understand is that the gun parts could be blued conventionally (oxide or hot blue) - OR NOT - the photo example of the Engraved 94 Winchester was French grayed without being blued first.
In this case, I started with the bare metal (after engraving.) To gray and etch I prefer ZEP Acidic Toilet Bowl Cleaner (Lowes) to remove the blue if it is present - ZEP is a bit more aggressive than grocery store cleaners, and as a result, it leaves a slight Etch to the metal surface...so. if y;u are following, I use the ZEP to remove blue...and I use it to etch the metal as well. Once the action is acid "grayed" and I "kill" the action of the acid with a soda solution, then I rinse with hot water and dry - but I don't use steel wool because I don't want to reduce the light acid etch.
Finally, the engraving and all surrounding metal are darkened with inks. Because the ZEP imparts a very light etch to the metal surface the inks also slightly darken the entire metal surfaces. After that, the metal is lacquered and then waxed with Renaissance.
As cryptically described by JJ, this is not a particularly difficult process. Likewise, it does no good at all to tell anyone that it's easy. Any of these processes we describe are learned over years of experimentation and practice - and by reading/studying about it from several different sources. One of the best French Gray processes was one described many years ago by John Barraclough. John uses a DuPont automotive etchant - not to remove blue, but to etch the metal surface. The surface etch is critically important to a soft French gray process. I found that the ZEP is more easily accessible at Lowes and other places and I that didn't need to go to an automotive paint store for the etchant.