Question: About to purchase a Flex or Micromotor

[Roco]

Why do I think this has been asked a 1000 times. Ive done a lot of research and Im to a point where the more I read the more confused in what to start out with I get. I am new to this, artistic in drawing but never something like this...new hobbies after 50 can be interesting lol

I relief carving wood, biggest job im imagining would be birds. (I truly hope this isnt out of line on this site)

Im looking at a flexhshaft, either a Foredom or Mastercarver...

My problem is Im just throwing Micromotors in the mix but Im trying to stay in the $300 range and Im not sure with roughing out small projects that this wont put too much stress on the machine.

Looking at the RAM 45, RAM Mystisa and Foredom Portable.

My hands are no large, I like the idea of a light cord but im not sure if it has the torque needed for my small applications. If I had the funds to start with a NSK then it would be a no brainer. If I thought the Micromotor will hold out for 6 months or so until I an get a Flex shaft to round out my small arsenal Id do that..or the other way around

Any and all help would be great and more than appreciated

 

[Lonestarr]

If you have air I would stay with air motors.....any size motor is available for rough to finish at a reasonable cost.. I have a flex motor and do not use it as much as the air.....one problem is the air supply, if you use large motors you need a large air compressor....mine is 10 cubic feet at 125 psi which is on the large size but you will find large is better....I find the NSK is for fine work, do to the cost of the motor I do not like to lug it down....Good luck on your venture....
Bob

 

[Eric Olson]

If you get a flex shaft I have been happy with the Foredom Tx. It has more torque at low speed and offers great control.
I don't have a micro motor but people love them I know.

 

[Roco]

If you have air I would stay with air motors.....any size motor is available for rough to finish at a reasonable cost.. I have a flex motor and do not use it as much as the air.....one problem is the air supply, if you use large motors you need a large air compressor....mine is 10 cubic feet at 125 psi which is on the large size but you will find large is better....I find the NSK is for fine work, do to the cost of the motor I do not like to lug it down....Good luck on your venture....
Bob

I havent looked at air...I have a large compressor..90-100 psi 50 gallon

 

[Roco]

If you get a flex shaft I have been happy with the Foredom Tx. It has more torque at low speed and offers great control.
I don't have a micro motor but people love them I know.

if i go with the flex shaft Im getting the TX...for detail work and fatigue im so leaning towards the micromotors...i just want to get whatever it is and get started lol

 

[jerrywh]

I have two foredoms and a couple of air tools also. I strongly recommend that you buy one that is reversible. There will be times when you need to go in the opposite direction. I like the reversible foredom. Another reason I like the foredom is you can get different hand pieces. Nothing will take the place of carving chisels.

 

[J.Hayes]

http://www.gesswein.com/p-10702-mar...?cpagenum=&sortfield=&sortdirection=&perpage=

This has been at my bench for over 6 years, I am very very happy with it. I'm a full time goldsmith so it sees alot of use and probably abuse. I have replaced the cord to the handpiece a few times. It runs super smooth and is soooo much quieter than the Fordom flexshaft thats still hanging by my bench but seldom used. Forward, reverse and variable speed foot pedal with a governor on the power unit. Can also be set to a speed on the controller and just turned on.

YMMV

Jeremy

 

[Roco]

http://www.gesswein.com/p-10702-mar...?cpagenum=&sortfield=&sortdirection=&perpage=

This has been at my bench for over 6 years, I am very very happy with it. I'm a full time goldsmith so it sees alot of use and probably abuse. I have replaced the cord to the handpiece a few times. It runs super smooth and is soooo much quieter than the Fordom flexshaft thats still hanging by my bench but seldom used. Forward, reverse and variable speed foot pedal with a governor on the power unit. Can also be set to a speed on the controller and just turned on.

YMMV

Jeremy

Thanks Jeremy...I was actually considering that unit...will it hurt it to rough out basswood?

 

[Roco]

jeremy...here's a question...the micromotor or the foredom flex...what would you buy FIRST starting out knowing youll get the other in 6 months?

 

[Roco]

I have two foredoms and a couple of air tools also. I strongly recommend that you buy one that is reversible. There will be times when you need to go in the opposite direction. I like the reversible foredom. Another reason I like the foredom is you can get different hand pieces. Nothing will take the place of carving chisels.

Would you do the Foredom TX first then get the micromotor or micromotor first and 6 months later the flex shaft foredom

 

[dogcatcher]

I have 2 0f the WeCheer flex shafts along with 2 of their micro motor tools. The micro motor doesn't have the hogging power that the shaft versions have. I also have Foredom flex shaft, an older model, not sure on the model. I use all of the flex shafts with hand pieces that use burrs and the reciprocal hand pieces. I like the micro motors because they work best for finer detail work, light weight, pretty easy to control and the vibration doesn't kill my hand. With the flex shafts, I have hand pieces that use 1/4", 1/8 and 3/32" shanks. I also have a "router" base to flatten background areas, so I even use router bits. Stew-Mac sells the router base, it's a guitar maker supply house.

WeCheer is cheaper than Foredom, both of their hand pieces interchange, mine all came at a bargain, wannabe duck carvers that bought and then quit. I didn't chose the brand they bought I chose what they were selling at the prices they sold them for. So far I haven't had problems with any of the WeCheer products. If any of these should crater, I will probably replace with either a "bargain" or another WeCheer.

 

[J.Hayes]

The foredom with a number 30 handpiece may be a bit more versatile because of the standard Jacobs 1/4" chuck. But the flexibility in the cord on the Marathon is awesome, so much easier to carve wax with it. EBay may be a good option for a traditional flex shaft they really last and last. Used my R series Foredom for ten years with no issues, probably still be using it daily but is so loud compared to the Marathon.

I would imagine basswood with the right bur will cut like butter

As for which I'd buy first, probably the Marathon, the only time I use my foredom anymore is for drilling larger holes in stuff and that's only because the cordless drill at the shop is always dead. Do remember all I work on is jewelry.

Jeremy

 

[Roco]

Genuinely all great info...I did look at the WeCheer but the decision I made was to spend about 300 now and another 300 in 3-6 months. If I get a flex shaft first Ill get the Foredom TX. Ive read enough to think that makes the best sense for rough and with the variable dial I can use the carver handle on it also. Id loe to get a NSK micro but I just can justify it for my first one. The Marathon or the Foredom Micro Ill most likely go with its just a matter what do I learn on and need most for starting and what can wait a few months down the road...

My though process was the micro first and be gentle not to use it like I have lots of torque. It would be easier on the hands and it would be a better detail oriented piece to finish off my work. Im only considering the Flexshaft first so I dont ruin the Micromotor roughing out my pieces...

 

[Roco]

How are the RAM Micromotors??

 

[J.Hayes]

I cannot speak for the RAM but my buddy has the Foredom micro motor and the handpiece from his works with my Marathon controller, and the two are identical, his is newer and has a different part number on it. My 6 year old one is a TPH-6501. I have a new one at home I can check tonight. Also note some have only an On/Off foot pedal.

I don't think you would burn it out unless you straight out abuse it. Sharp burs is the key. My Marathon has an overload protection circuit, about the only time it trips is when im forcing a separating disc.

 

[Roco]

Thanks J.Hayes....Think Im going to do the Marathon with the TPF-77 Handpiece for 299.00 I cant believe they get you for $40 for a different collet Grrr lol

I had the tx foredom picked out with two handpieces also...guess theyll have to wait

 

[J.Hayes]

All my burs are 3/32" . If you have a buch that are 1/8" you can possibly get the 1/8" hand piece and jus buy collet reducers, I have one to go fro 3/32 to 1/16, works great.

TPF 77 is the foot pedal

 

[jerrywh]

J.Hayes.
I like the fact that your tool is so much easier to manipulate. It has a lot of good feature but I often use drill bits as small as .020 or a little less. I don't see any way of chucking them in that tool. Is there a way?

 

[J.Hayes]

http://www.gesswein.com/p-3228-adapter-chucks.aspx?cpagenum=&sortfield=&sortdirection=&perpage=


http://www.gesswein.com/p-3080-busc...?cpagenum=&sortfield=&sortdirection=&perpage=

I use the twist drills mainly I also have the adapter chuck but rarely use it

 

[J.Hayes]

Also there are 2 parts I keep on hand at all times first is # 6 in the pdf parts list Hand cap C ring, if dropped on the nose this little sucker can pop off and is a bear to find, and item #43 motor cord, I use mine alot and sometimes the cord gets abused, shut in the tray and such, the fine wires inside have been damaged, I cannot have down time because it always breaks at the wosrt possible time.