You have to use a dark pigment on anything that reflects like metal, glass, mirror. The more expensive lasers can engrave with out I believe. It worked good for me to practice this.
I just ran a trial on a test piece I sanded the metal first then put a thin layer( I used blue acrylic paint) ran my laser 90% 100speed. This took about a hour.
I have a vevor 10 watt laser and I can use it to mark metal. Will not be deep but have made designs on metal parts. Would work good for lines and simple things just have to run it slow. And make sure you focus the laser correctly
I have a andu it's like a lindsay. And also a Chinese ebay gravermax. I want to get a grs but it's hard to find one for a decent price that I can afford. I can get the gravermeister for $150 plus shipping. With original hand piece
I'm buying a old gravermeister the 1200. Comes with the basic handpiece. But looking into the 915 or the large one. What would you recommend. Also thinking of seeing if grs still has the speed upgrade if I go with the 915 handpiece. Last question does anyone have a 915 or large. Thanks
This is what I used. The plastic part on top I had in my shop fit perfectly. I used a plastic screw with a 1/2 " spacer to hold it center now going to get or make a split sleeve to hold the disk down
Ya I'm using round tungsten carbide and I see what you are saying. I have noticed with the templates you do have to go in a order and some are different. I'm going to see if I can adjust that one today
New to the group I'm Chris higgins from oregon 41 winters old. I started graving this week. This is my current set up. Andu hand piece foot control with a sil air compressor(amazing quiet). Amazon ball vice and just built a power hone. No pictures yet. Waiting on more 3mm tungsten carbide rod to...