Help, please: How Do I Hold A Vickers?

Beathard

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I need to do a lettering job on a 1918 Colt Vickers. Any idea how to hold this monster?

 

phil

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The gentleman that taught me lettering often has huge items like trophies and silver ornaments to engrave. He has used a large board with a hole drilled in each corner and a large split ring attatched to each corner. Each split ring has a length of rope connected of equal length. The opposite end of the rope is then tied to a rock climbers carabiner and suspended from a large hook in a beam of the ceiling. The carabiner allows for 360 degree rotation for helping to cut any curves. It is a method that works well for him.
Imagine a child's swing with 4 ropes instead of 2 meeting in a central point above the seat.
 
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monk

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i'd make every effort to make wood wedges to lend support in areas that don't contact the board surface. a board such as phil mentioned. i've done odd stuff such as this. i would also make a couple of "u bolts" out of 1/8" or larger all thread. pad the inside of the curve with leather or whatever. drill holes in the board to match the "u bolts. make the bolts long enough to go thru the board, and secure with wing nuts.using phils' idea. and a bit more creativity, you'll be good to go.when i was stupid ( a very long time ago)i learned an easy way to engrave blackpowder rifles that had the goodies already installed. i used a very lite gauge chain from the hardware store. the same principle as phials' ropes.
 

fegarex

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Really rather simple. You need an Airtact and a Tom Cruise Mission Impossible harness. :cool:
 

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Big-Un

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Harbour Freight has a faily cheap adjustable welding table with slots for C-clamps that may work. It may be necessary to support those areas not touching the surface with Bondo or some sort of putty/plaster mix, but those things are HEAVY, in which case there will be little vibration. By the way, are you engraving just one side or are more areas planned?

On second thought, after looking at it better and remembering how much they weigh, I t I would lay it on sandbags on a stout table, cinch it down with straps and just go for it. You're going to have to climb on it anyway to engrave it, so just go for it.
Bill
 
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Fred Bowen

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The gun is an assembled bunch of smaller parts. Perhaps your client could have a qualified gunsmith disassemble it and give you just the parts that need to be engraved. They may still be large, but would have to be more manageable. Or you could mount it on a Sopwith Camel and go at it with a portable Lindsay. Just a thought.
 

Doc Mark

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I've had to cradle large unwieldy objects before for various projects not involving engraving. One trick I used quite often was to make a temporary "fence" around the object laying on a piece of plywood with simple tape and cardboard. Then wrap the piece in heavy plastic wrap. Lay the wrapped object back into it's "fenced area" and fill the underside and half way up the object with the spray foam used to seal around large window and door gaps. The foam swells to fill the irregular under sides of the object and when it hardens it can support a tremendous amount of weight and secure the object in a perfectly formed cradle. After all the work is done, it's simple to break off the foam if it went into any undercuts.
 
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Dulltool

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Beathard,
I know the barrels were made to be removed and replaced in the field. I don't know what is needed to remove the cooling jacket... but I am guessing it's doable.
Very cool gun,
 

Beathard

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Fred, customer is a qualified gunsmith and NFA manufacturer. SamW, you have to have an FFL to work as a gunsmith. No additional stamps are required as long as it is fir engraving or repair. No manufacturing changes unless you have a stamp. Oh and is a Curio/Relic not a modern firearm.

Thanks everyone for the ideas. Im not used to getting something like this everyday.
 

DakotaDocMartin

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Yes, But...if fully automatic that raises a whole other question of possession, even for engraving. Just asking as I haven't a clue.

If it's a Class III NFA (full auto) it can be in the possession of a Class III FFL dealer or gunsmith. It can also be in the possession of anyone listed on an NFA Revocable Trust if the owner has the Vickers on one. If it's semi-auto, a regular FFL is OK.
 

Beathard

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You do not need to be a clas III gunsmith. The key words are repair and recommended. The code recommends transfer but does not require it for repair by a gunsmith. Its the only law I've ever seen thar says recommend.
 
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