How to hand hammer metal into a die

Steve Adams

Elite Cafe Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2007
Messages
320
Once upon a time, I learned to engrave steel dies with a hammer and chisels. A short time later, I learned how to make products from these dies in aluminum, copper, bronze, brass and pewter. You could use gold or silver if the cost doesn't bother you. Some of the products I've made or have cut dies for include trays, bowls, dishes, candle holders, coasters, jewelery boxes, waste baskets, mugs, belt buckles, ornaments, bookmarks, napkin rings, etc.
Here is the basic process: On a flat square block of tool steel, engrave in the negative the design you intend to hammer. I use S7, six inches square or larger steel, milled flat on both sides, then fine surface ground on one side. You should further sand the surface a bit smoother on the surface ground side. When engraving a die, start with the background of the design and work forward. The use of a hammer, chisels, a few punches, good light, a sturdy bench and an optivisor is all you need. Check work as you go with a hard clay block or silly putty.
Once the die is complete, place it on a heavy steel table that allows room for clamping to the side of the die. Put wood equal to the height of the die around the die then place masking tape on the seam where the wood butts up against the steel. You can hammer aluminum or pewter into a soft die, but you should harden the die if you want to use harder materials.
Place the material over the design on the die and clamp the metal in all four corners. Use whatever clamping system you want, I just use furniture clamps. The top two clamps should be very tight, the bottom two tight but a bit less. When you hammer the metal it stretches so the bottom two clamps will allow for the movement of metal. Tip - it helps to rub the metal with scotch brite so you can see your hammer marks.
Start hammering with a hard mallet. Go over the whole design. The design will start to show on the back of the metal. Now, take a polished ball peen hammer and start hammering in rows, being certain not to miss a spot. If the metal begins to buckle just flatten it out with the mallet, then keep hammering with the ball peen. Pay close attention to deeper spots in the die, you don't want to miss any deep areas with the hammer. If you miss a spot, the scotch brite surface will show where you missed. In this case, just re-hit that spot with the hammer.
When done, remove the clamps and see how you did. It takes a little practice, but works great.
Now just cut the metal to the shape you want, buff it, color it, buff a little more to get the color you want, form it and then shine it.
You can see my hammering set up on www.sga-sculpture-engraving.com
 

Roger Bleile

~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Joined
Oct 4, 2007
Messages
2,990
Location
Northern Kentucky
Steve,
I just checked out your web site and recommend others check it as well. That King Arthur nickle you did is a knock out!!!

Roger
 

Steve Adams

Elite Cafe Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2007
Messages
320
The steel for the die doesn't have to be S7, I just like using it. You can use whatever steel you want. In the old days of this art, iron dies were used.
 

gtsport

Elite Cafe Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2007
Messages
305
Location
Racine, wisconsin
One thing Steve forgot

The first time I met Steve, he was doing just this kind of metal forming in his basement, pounding out an aluiminum plate on an 8 inch carrousel horse die he had cut. After he handed me the hammer and I added a few smacks of my own I realized what he had forgotten...Ear Plugs! It is very loud. This year I used the same technique for a coin die I made for a friend who wants to hammer out ancient Greek style coins. I taped a piece of pewter to the face of the die and tapped away at it with the ball end of my engraver's hammer. Much easier than breaking out the 5 pound hammer or chucking the whole mess into my screw press in the garage...the 20 degree fahrenheit garage. die cutting can be fun.

Joe Paonessa
 

Martin Strolz

Elite Cafe Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2006
Messages
339
Location
Steyr, Austria
Steve,
thank you so much for explaining this quite interesting process. Have you ever done any repoussè work? You must be very good at it! I much enjoyed seeing your website and your fine work there! Thank you. Those stage pictures are best, really excellent instruction for coin cutters and die engravers too.
Martin
 
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