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KCSteve

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Whut, you mean you don't? :shock:

I mean, if they're pocket knives then there should be one in your pocket, right?

And if you also happen to have belt knives, neck knives, etc. well, it just helps keep you from blowing away.

I will confess to a tendency to get things (documents mostly) that have mysteriously separated along the fold line at the top of the envelope. It's like the darn things just fall apart somehow.
 

Peter E

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Whut, you mean you don't? :shock:

I mean, if they're pocket knives then there should be one in your pocket, right?

No argument here:big grin: I do find that when I carry a few of them they tend to get a bit weighty:eek:

Back on topic, I find I tend to use my power hone directions as you described Steve.

As I mentioned, expecially on the Lindsay grind, my preference is to have the graver oriented so that the wheel travels straight across the graver.
 

KCSteve

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I was watching my Chris DeCamillus Bulino DVD last night and noticed (because of this discussion) that when he's doing the bulk-grinding he does it off to the side (about the 3:00 position). Over there the wheel is traveling pretty much along the length of the graver and I'm thinking that might be better for the earliest stages.

Oh - one tip for that initial shaping: I got a 100 grit disk and it makes life much better. I also spent an extra $20 and got a mandrel so I can use it in my drill press but so far I haven't been in a situation where the time I'd save by spinning it faster would offset the time it takes to set up / take down my little drill press in my crowded work space.
 

Peter E

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It was discussed in other threads, but it is worth mentioning getting a coarser disk for hogging off metal saves a LOT of time.

Lapidary disks can be found on ebay in 80 & 100 grit for $30 or so. They are thinner than the nice wheels GRS sells, but they work fine for rough grinding.
 
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