"Lindsay patent point geometry" what is it?
- Thread starter Cody
- Start date
Cody,
You will get all your answers on Steve's website
http://www.engravingschool.com/private/LindsayPoint-Intro.htm
You will get all your answers on Steve's website
http://www.engravingschool.com/private/LindsayPoint-Intro.htm
Thanks Ray. That is an interesting read. I notice that the "patent point" graver is sharpened with a full length heel and the comparison graver is sharpened with a regular heel. I'm not sure I understand exactly what the long secondary "heel" actually does. Does anyone use this "patent point" design and if so, what are your thoughts?. How would it compare to a graver just sharpened with a full length heel?.
Thanks
Cody
Thanks
Cody
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Doc Mark
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Cody,
Although I'm still in the early phases of engraving, and don't speak with a lot of experience, I LOVE the Lindsay geometry! I find that it allows me to cut a tighter radius scroll, without "dragging" the heel. The true primary heel is very narrow. The face is 45 degrees and the standard Lindsay graver is set at 115 degrees. I found the 115 to be easier to learn, than the 120 degree. But, this is very subjective. You can make 80 - 90 - 120 degree, or whatever, gravers with the long secondary heel and the Lindsay geometry. I've made all of these and I really like the feel of them. The points seem to last longer also.
Download Steve's tutorial which gives all the grinding instructions and pertainant angles and try one, you'll be pleased.
Mark
Although I'm still in the early phases of engraving, and don't speak with a lot of experience, I LOVE the Lindsay geometry! I find that it allows me to cut a tighter radius scroll, without "dragging" the heel. The true primary heel is very narrow. The face is 45 degrees and the standard Lindsay graver is set at 115 degrees. I found the 115 to be easier to learn, than the 120 degree. But, this is very subjective. You can make 80 - 90 - 120 degree, or whatever, gravers with the long secondary heel and the Lindsay geometry. I've made all of these and I really like the feel of them. The points seem to last longer also.
Download Steve's tutorial which gives all the grinding instructions and pertainant angles and try one, you'll be pleased.
Mark
one thing is for sure, as you increase the angle beyond 90 degrees, there is a marked increase in the point strength. less tip breakage, all other things being equal.
It's not a secondary "heel" per-se, it is called relief. In the machine-tool world, relief is added to cutting tools to prevent rub and gall. For a lathe toolbit, for example, there are relief facets cut below the cutting tip of the tool, so when the bit is applied to the metal, the only portion of the toolbit which contacts the metal is the tip and a very small portion of the face.
In a Lindsay point, the actual heel is often as small as a couple of thousandths of an inch, and can be seen either with magnification, or by eye as a barely perceptible shiny land running parallel to the relief cut.
For a 120 degree graver, you'd normally roll the graver +/- 30 degrees at say 15 degrees of pitch to generate the heels. Using Lindsay's method, you first grind the relief facets at 2 degrees pitch, 25 degrees roll. The facets extend a significant distance from the tip of the tool backwards on the shank. When all is done except the heels, to generate the heels, set 15 pitch and 30 roll; the standard 120 V-graver heel. Gently contact the wheel, power off. I use a 1200 diamond, others prefer a ceramic. With the gentle contact made, I hand-sweep the wheel for perhaps 10 strokes through an inch or so.
I like the point. It executes very tight arcs and still cuts clean.
In this picture, you can see the bottom of a Lindsay tip, left, and a standard 120-V, right. The heel lands on the Lindsay tip are much larger than needed, but at least they show up well in the photo. The only difference between these two gravers are the two relief facets, so to take the bit on the right, and relieve it, requires two cuts of +/- 25 degrees roll, 2 degrees pitch.
HTH
In a Lindsay point, the actual heel is often as small as a couple of thousandths of an inch, and can be seen either with magnification, or by eye as a barely perceptible shiny land running parallel to the relief cut.
For a 120 degree graver, you'd normally roll the graver +/- 30 degrees at say 15 degrees of pitch to generate the heels. Using Lindsay's method, you first grind the relief facets at 2 degrees pitch, 25 degrees roll. The facets extend a significant distance from the tip of the tool backwards on the shank. When all is done except the heels, to generate the heels, set 15 pitch and 30 roll; the standard 120 V-graver heel. Gently contact the wheel, power off. I use a 1200 diamond, others prefer a ceramic. With the gentle contact made, I hand-sweep the wheel for perhaps 10 strokes through an inch or so.
I like the point. It executes very tight arcs and still cuts clean.
In this picture, you can see the bottom of a Lindsay tip, left, and a standard 120-V, right. The heel lands on the Lindsay tip are much larger than needed, but at least they show up well in the photo. The only difference between these two gravers are the two relief facets, so to take the bit on the right, and relieve it, requires two cuts of +/- 25 degrees roll, 2 degrees pitch.
HTH
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