Question: stainless steel cuff bracelets

[snappdragon]

Hi--I just started to learn engraving last month, on my graver smith. My ultimate goal is to make stainless steel cuff bracelets, pendants, and earrings. I've practiced on aluminum and brass, so far. I plan to obtain the proper carbide bits for steel. I just ordered a power hone. I have a Harbor Freight throatless metal cutter, and I'm a small built woman... Can anyone advise me of the minimal thickness in millimeters of "304 grade stainless" I would need to make a bracelet, engraveable, and still be able to bend it with a dead blow mallet on a stepped bracelet mandrill? I like wide bracelets: 3/4" --2" wide. Also, any suggestions on a supplier? Thanks for any input...and/or advice.

 

[Brian Marshall]

If'n I were you... I would look for some 400 series stainless sheet.

You will work 3X as hard and still not get as good a result from the 304.

You can make them as light as 20 gauge, personally I prefer 16 or 14 gauge.

Stainless is not gonna be fun to bend - even if you can find it dead soft...

A throatless "Beverly" shear is pretty difficult to keep "on the line" (if that's the one you got?) for straight shearing.

It was designed for cutting curves.


Brian

 

[Ragnarok]

Stainless also work hardens fairly quick. You better get the bend you want the first try.

 

[Skylineski]

Not sure how set you are on doing them in stainless, but here is a place to get precut blanks. Might be a good place to start and work your way up to stainless.

http://www.stampingoutloud.com/stam...-bracelet-cuff-blanks-various-lengths-5-pack/

Doug

 

[silverchip]

400 series stainless is easily obtained from online metals. 410 might be a good choice it comes annealed and in most configurations that are conducive to what you want as well as being heat treatable for spring hardness.

 

[monk]

c

Hi--I just started to learn engraving last month, on my graver smith. My ultimate goal is to make stainless steel cuff bracelets, pendants, and earrings. I've practiced on aluminum and brass, so far. I plan to obtain the proper carbide bits for steel. I just ordered a power hone. I have a Harbor Freight throatless metal cutter, and I'm a small built woman... Can anyone advise me of the minimal thickness in millimeters of "304 grade stainless" I would need to make a bracelet, engraveable, and still be able to bend it with a dead blow mallet on a stepped bracelet mandrill? I like wide bracelets: 3/4" --2" wide. Also, any suggestions on a supplier? Thanks for any input...and/or advice.

i bought one of those last year. i thought i had a bargain. was too difficult to keep the blades properly aligned in the one i got. fortunately, their return policy is quite friendly to the onsumer.
not sure if there's a ss specie that is non allergenic. one should be aware that many folks are a bit allergic to the stuff. i would put a good coat or 2 of clear lacquer on the inside to be safe. good luck fiddling with the stuff.

 

[Brian Marshall]

Surgical Stainless Steel (SSS):

316L or 316LVM are the only acceptable grades of stainless steel for the use of body jewelry. 316L is implant-grade surgical stainless steel – it is probably the most common and most widely termed "non-allergenic".


BUT, it ain't gonna be much fun to engrave...

And I've never looked for it in sheet stock. Did have some heavy rod and wire around here that we used to use when we fooled with pierced jewelry.

I'd make the stuff, but I refused to install it. That lasted all of about a week... PITA and no real money to be made.

Tried setting a diamond or two in the rods - that's how I know it won't be fun to engrave.

Don't ask what they were gonna do with the finished product... your imagination will suffice.

Humans can indeed be VERY strange creatures...


Brian

 

[John P. Anderson]

All the talk of stainless gives me fond memories of the first time I carved silver. If you can swing the expense buy a small sheet of 16 gauge sterling silver for fabricating your bracelets.

John

 

[snappdragon]

Thanks for the info....I don't "get it"--are gun and knife steel so much easier to engrave?? Everyone's work is just so beautiful, even the beginners! Of course, guns and knives come preshaped, but they're still steel....

 

[Brian Marshall]

"Steel" varies a LOT. From soft and gummy, to harder than some of the "steel" gravers we use to cut most of it with...

Some steel will bend easily, some will snap and some will shatter.

The alloy it's made from, annealing, temper and the particular phase the moon is in - all these things can affect how it "works" or engraves.


Kinda like all the different kinds of paper, plastics and glass. All have different properties. Some are fireproof, some are bullet proof... and some will dissolve in water...


Brian

 

[Latergaters]

Thanks for the info....I don't "get it"--are gun and knife steel so much easier to engrave?? Everyone's work is just so beautiful, even the beginners! Of course, guns and knives come preshaped, but they're still steel....

I took the start to finish firearms engraving class last year and had a pretty easy time engraving the frame and barrel of the revolver. When I got to the cylinder it was a whole other experience. I broke gravers probably every 1/4 to 1/2 inch. It was like learning all over again. My straight lines on other parts look ok but I'm embarrassed by the cylinder.

 

[bronc]

What about starting with copper and silver, then working your way up to stainless? Kind of like if you were going to play basketball, you might want to get good at short range shots before you started launching three pointers. Just a thought

Stewart

 

[Eugene Carkoski]

There is a guy there is a guy by the name of kevin potter That builds jewelry making equipment he may have some hydraulic benders that will work with stainless his website is www.potterusa.com
Go out and look at his you tube videos
I believe Kevin is located in Tucson Arizona , I have no connection with this company .