Stipple method explained

[BrianPowley]

I've had a few requests to demonstrate the technique I prefer to use when stippling: (I hope this makes sense to you)

1st Pic. Stipple all areas first. Stay neat and work right up to the lines.
2nd Pic. Cut lines as you normally would.
3rd Pic. A close up of the stippling. See how close it is, but not precise--doesn't need to be either. We'll clean up any slight errors later.
4th Pic. A few lines cut.
5th Pic. A few more cuts to "clean up" the rest of the stipple.
6th Pic. Now all you need are the shading lines.
Notice how clean the design becomes. We've managed to keep those ugly stipple marks out of the bright cuts.
Obviously, the pictures were taken through the scope lens.
The item is a pure silver lip plate on a flute.
Enjoy!

 

[tundratrekers@mtaonline.n]

Thanks,Brian! Is it possible to realize such results in the cutting,w/hammer & chisel,push? mike

 

[BrianPowley]

Mike, I would expect you will be able to answer your question better than I. LOL!

 

[tundratrekers@mtaonline.n]

Was just wondering if that type cutting is relegated to power tools for some reason other than personal choice/preference. I dont have an air graver.mike

 

[BrianPowley]

Nah....Bright cutting has been around for a whole lot longer than air tools.

 

[Cloudy]

Thanks. Brian- the photos help!

 

[RoycroftRon]

I like the idea of stippling first. Only problem I see is that the stippling is not in a relieved (recessed) area and is prone to wear. It looks real nice though.

Brian how do you approach it if it is on a piece that is prone to handling wear?

 

[BrianPowley]

If an item is prone to wear (through use), any embellishment is going to fade.
My wedding ring was engraved. After 23 years of continuous wearing, the engraving is gone.
The ring now bears many dings and scratches and doesn't even come close to looking like the ring my wife put on my finger in 1987.
...and it is something I consider the most beautiful thing I own.

 

[AndrosCreations]

Thanks for the tutorial, Brian. Everything is well explained and the pictures are nice and clear!

I don't want to deviate from your topic but your transfers look nice. How do you do your transfers?

Thanks!
Andy

 

[BrianPowley]

I use good old modeling clay and 3M clear carton sealing tape....
Keepin' it simple.............

 

[AndrosCreations]

Simple is good... Could you elaborate a bit more for the simple amongst us (me)? Do the transfers come from either a laser or inkjet printer?

Thanks again.

 

[BrianPowley]

When I get time, I'll post it as another thread, OK?

 

[AndrosCreations]

Sounds good... thanks Brian.

 

[BrianPowley]

Oh, one last thing about my transfers:
They are not laser or inkjet prints.
For production purposes, I use actual engraved plates to "lift" the pattern from---like a smoke pull, but I use modeling clay (plasticine) and clear tape.
It's cheap,fast, simple, hassle free.

 

[tundratrekers@mtaonline.n]

How are you getting the designs on the master plates?mike

 

[BrianPowley]

I simply draw them on there...with a pencil.
Then I just engrave them.

 

[fegarex]

OK Brian,
I'm an old dog and I have used clay/tape methods as well as many others for years but I am a bit confused. It appears the transferred lines are black. Is this an optical illusion?
When I do something like this the lines are just the bare metal and everything else is diffused by the clay. Just wondered if what I am seeing is shiny lines that appear black or if indeed they are.

 

[BrianPowley]

Rex, yes those just shiny lines. The dull areas are from the modeling clay's oily residue...it kills the glare.
The item I am engraving is a super shiny lip plate on a flute.

 

[fegarex]

OK,
I assumed that but I wondered if you had stumbled on to some new miracle.
This method still works well.

 

[spank7357]

Brian, Great sequence of photos. Maybe a candidate for the "Tips Section"?