Stone Setting

[davidshe]

For the past few months I have been obsessed with learning the basics of stone setting. Hats off to all you stone setters out there because now I realize what an art this really is. After hundreds of failed and crappy settings, I finally am getting the hang of it. The picture is a sterling silver ring I just finished with 2.5mm sapphires and Swarovski CZ's flush set around the ring into a simple deep relief design. Getting these stones set securely and all at the correct height is VERY, VERY challenging! My self study course has consisted of two videos (one by Sam and one by Blaine Lewis), several books and hundreds of articles I found on the web. Anyway, just wanted to share this because I feel like I just graduated from first to second grade Thanks for looking and any suggestions or comments from the excellent stone setters I have seen on this forum would be appreciated.

 

[Brian Marshall]

If you can do that with quartz, peridot or emerald - without an involuntary vist to the rubber room - then you've "made" it.


I had one request for 3 opals set this way. Did it.

But I confess that since I built the set they went into, I upped the karat from 14 to 18.

And I took my time with them.

Cheating?


Brian


No, I did not flush set the opals into a ring. It was a pendant and earring set.

And I don't think I would do it again. You do these things when you are hungry or want to prove you can do something the jeweler down the street won't do.

Not wise. But when you are young you fall for that line... the guy down the street says it can't be done, and, well, what can I say?

 

[GTJC460]

Looks pretty good. Silver is much easier to do flush, gypsy, rub over, whatever you want to call it. The metal yields very nice to the burnishing required to set it. The harder the metal is, the more difficult it becomes to displace the metal out over the edge of the stone. 10k white gold is the worst. That stuff is like trying move iron. It just totally stinks to flush set anything in it. So my suggestion is don't do it.

I agree with Brian. Flush setting amethyst or citrine is bound to make you reach for a bottle of something strong. Have extra stones on hand, you'll need them. Garnets aren't fun either.

 

[GTJC460]

As a general rule, if it's patriotic, red, white, or blue...you will be ok

 

[monk]

a really beautiful piece. thanks for showing

 

[mtlctr]

I've done flush setting (self taught) in silver, red brass & copper.I was determined to figure it out. mostly cz's but citrine , amythest & other synthetics . From what i know & have found out is the hole size, it must be just right as in a whisper to tight, the stone must "snap" in. otherwise well, you know. after about 500 ya get pretty good at it.

 

[davidshe]

Thanks for the comments and I do plan on using just red, white and blue stones for now since they are around 8 or better on the hardness scale.

 

[GTJC460]

If you are using the carbide burnishers that GRS sells, be very careful on anything other than a diamond. The carbide will scratch anything but diamond. I would hate to see you do that on some really nice ruby or sapphire melee or larger goods. I make my burnishers out of HSS, and don't have to worry, but i do have to polish them more often than the carbide ones.

 

[davidshe]

Thanks for that confirmation Bert. I make my own but I did in fact try one made from carbide and since have reverted back to HSS. To keep the burnishes consistent I also need to clean up my burnisher after every few settings or so but it is worth the effort. I am now setting some stones in a titanium ring. So far so good!

 

[Silberschweif]

I made them my own For hard stones I use Hss from broken milling tools for the softer Stones one out of Copper it works nice but with Titanium I have no experience

 

[Gemsetterchris]

You've done really well there
Those swarovski cz's are a pig to set & are brittle.
The main problem with cz is the girdles being so thick...diamonds & nicely cut harder stones are much easier to do.

I've just done a few "test" pieces of swarovski in silver rings for a company that uses them as cheap samples, the flush set princess cuts were fun...not

 

[davidshe]

Thank you Chris! Nice compliment coming from a real gemsetter! Good to know that it doesn't get any harder when I move to diamonds. The sapphires I used were lab created from Stuller. I purchased a couple natural sapphires as well but the lab created ones looked nicer and more consistent in my opinion. What are your thoughts on using lab created gemstones such as ruby and sapphire?

 

[Gemsetterchris]

I've no problem with lab stones just so long as they are advertised as such & not misleading people pretending they are real.
Maybe the sapphires you bought were native cut which can be abit unique.
You'll find diamond cut stones easier & more consistent..
Always good to check what hardness your dealing with, the swarovski are 6-7 mohs? Which is less than the usual cz.

 

[Beladran]

I just did a diamond by the yard necklace with 24 bezel set sapphires every 1.5 inchs when it was done I was almost to the point of needing a straight jacket..


Books are great but hands on is priceless