Transferring to plexiglas for Pantograph

[jbmartin]

I need to trace out quite a few of the same pattern to silver with the diamond drag for hand cutting.
It is for a logo with some lettering. I have a New Hermes IX-4 or something like that, which I bought on Ebay quite some time ago for not much. The last time I did something like this, I printed out a 4X pattern on the printer and glued it to a piece of plexi, then cut the outline of it with a square graver with the Gravermeister. Then being very careful, since the groove was not too deep, used that pattern with a 45 degree cutting head in the Hermes on 2:1 made a template with a very nice groove on another piece of plexi which gave me a deeper groove for the trace point to follow, that became my pattern. That pattern allowed for numerous sizes of the same pattern. Cutting through the paper wasn't that bad, but not terribly accurate.

My question is, how could I best transfer my printed image to the plexi? I have both inkjet and laser options available.

Thanks!

JB

 

[cowboy_silversmith]

JB~ I will also enlarge the art work 4X to 7X depending what is most useful. However I have an old panograph router .030 stylus (kind of resembles an onglette) that I sharpened just for cutting templates in plastic. It cuts deep enough so that I do not need to reduce it any further with a router. I take the enlarged art work and scotch tape it to the backside of the plastic. I mount it on a board and cinch it up in my block. I then cut my template by hand by following the lines of my art work. In this way I do not have to cut through paper and I am also able to follow my lines very consistantly.

Best regards,
Greg Pauline

 

[silverchip]

You can also just use spray glue (3M) and lightly coat the print out and stick it to the plexiglass and then cut it with your graver.Using thinner plastic to help keep your pattern accurate.I use a #52 round bottom with a little light oil for lube.

 

[fegarex]

I make LOTS of these templates for the NASCAR trophies I do. For me the fastest, easiest and cheapest way is to cut only one plate by hand. I also made a special round bottom graver that is wide enough for the stylus to follow. I use polycarbonate (Lexan) as I can buy it anywhere and it doesn't chip like Plexiglas. If you know a sign engraver, the sign plastic is ever better but more expensive. I tried to put the transfer on the back side but found the thickness of the plastic didn't give me an accurate line to follow. I just scuff the plate with a scuff pad and tape the transfer on the plate. I just use carbon paper to trace it. You can use any other transfer method as well, I just need to "simplify" a lot of the patterns I do and can do it on the fly by tracing.

 

[jbmartin]

Thanks for the help guys! These suggestions are very helpful!
I took these spurs on as a "donation" for a kids rodelo (40 pairs) and was trying to find the best way to do them quickly, yet effectively.
I do appreciate the feedback!

Thanks again!

JB

 

[joe seeley]

The plastic I use is also clear, and I tape my print to the underside and look thru it. make sure you are looking threight down so as to not distort the image.

Joe

 

[KCSteve]

The plastic I use is also clear, and I tape my print to the underside and look thru it. make sure you are looking threight down so as to not distort the image.

Joe

I was wondering if parallax caused much of a problem. Sounds like it can if you're not careful.

 

[hiloboy]

I found the best way to make masters. is to use what fegarex said sign plastic and carbon paper.it cuts like butter and the master holds up well..i also use a round for do my cutting..when i'm useing my masters on my pantograph i use a little baby powder in the cuts of the master that helps to make a very smooth transfer of your design to what ever your engraving..

kulika

 

[jbmartin]

I'm not real clear on what you are referring to as "sign plastic".
Is that the plastic you can get for doing name plates, etc. that has the base color and then the top color?

Thanks!

JB

 

[fegarex]

Yes.
It does work well. I don't have a quick access to it so I use Lexan but the sign plastic cuts easier.

 

[monk]

BY SIGN PLASTIC HE MEANS THE PLASTic known as "engravers plastic". it is used in the industry to make door signs, wall signs, nameplates, etc. it cuts nicely with a 53 or 54 round graver. the bannister co. in new jersey sells this stuff cheaper than any body. you can also use both sides of the stuff. it's even cheaper if you buy colors that are no longer in demand or are considered scratched or "seconds "

 

[fegarex]

One more thought/pointer...
I found "Rem-Oil" brand "Dry Lube" the best for making the tracer slide on the master once you are done. I think it is a Teflon spray that dries to a powder. It really helps. I've tried several lubes and silicone and this works best for me.

 

[hiloboy]

it was monk that first told me about engravers plastic its the best thing i have tryed for making masters. i made friends with this sign shop in the area.. ask if i could buy some of his seconds told him what i was useing it for ..and now about ever other month i get a box full of plastic. look in your area just as long as they know your not making sign to cut their line maybe you can get their throw aways...

fegarex, i'm going to give that dry lube a try..what i like about baby powder is it smells good when your working...

 

[deedubbya]

Wireframe

When I need a master cut in plastic, one of the local award shops will router it out for me, what ever size I require for $10.00 . All you need is the art work in a wireframe (eps.) format. The baby powder is a great idea for stopping the drag, I used WD-40

 

[jbmartin]

Thanks a lot for the responses everyone.
I have quite a bit of the sign stuff that came with the pantograph, but it is all too narrow for what I need.
I will endeavor to find some in town here, but worse case will find some Lexan instead.
That was why I did the double pattern last time, the graver chipped a lot on the plexi, but making the pattern wasn't that bad, then using the cutting bit on the pantograph gave me a fairly usable master.
But, thanks to all of you, I now have a better path to follow.

Thanks!

JB

 

[DARNEW]

Templates

Hello,
My name is Doug Arnew and I used the same system when I was building trophy belt buckles for the rodeo`s. What I did different was insted of plexiglass wich I found a little hard to cut I used the plastic sheets that you buy to cut name badges and stuff out of from the engraver supply co. Then I took a round piece of nickle rod and sharpend it with a 30 degree face on it. Tack the sheet down to a board, that big enough, put in my ball vice and cut it. If you use the plastic that is layerd in two colors the cut line will show up. As far as pattern transfer I would spray the sheet of plastic with a flat white paint then trace my pattern on the sheet using copy paper. Then after it was all cut you just wipe off the paint or not, if you use a dark under color on the plastic. This also allows you to make changes to your pattern as you see fit.