Transfers flaking...

[mitch]

lately i've been experimenting a lot with the baking parchment & laser printer transfer method and while i'm getting excellent quality image transfers i'm still not thrilled with its tendency to flake off the metal surface as i engrave.

i've used damar varnish & lighter fluid in various concentrations, spray fixative, and even used a hot burnisher to apply it straight to bare metal. i've tried using a bit of spray fix over it for durability and also a heat gun to reset the toner, and experimented with both- heat, then spray. of course, the metal surface is always thoroughly cleaned first. however, to varying degrees all these methods are still a bit brittle and tend to flake or chip as the graver passes, or even slightly ahead of it.

any suggestions for A) better adhesion; or B) a somewhat softer, more flexible, durable coating; or C) maybe some of both? :thinking:

thanks!

 

[Riflesmith]

Just a thought....try cleaning with acetone? How about a 50/50 mix of clear fingernail polish and acetone in a air brush, a couple of light coats, warm the metal with a blow drier. Richard

 

[maplesm]

I use straight damar varnish while still slightly sticky with very little to no flaking.

 

[DKanger]

Mitch,
I seem to recall that the parchment transfer method was introduced as a way to transfer using an ink jet printer, not a laser printer. This could be the crux of your problem.

 

[Roger B]

I have trouble with flaking when trying to transfer images and text that have a larger amount of solid toner. To remedy this I use the outline tool (hairline width) in the drawing software (in my case Corel) and this gives a better transfer.

Good luck,
Roger

 

[Kevin Scott]

I don't use transfers, but maybe the varnish is too thick. With other coatings to draw on, a very thin coating is more durable.

I use a very light coat of Mop and Glo acrylic floor finish to protect the surface after penciling. Extremely durable. But if the varnish coating is flaking etc, don't think a protective top coat will help.

 

[silverchip]

Have you tried Head and Shoulders?????

Seriously, I use the parchment paper method and just the outlines with my laser printer without much difficulties.

I use a spray fixative to keep it from flaking.

 

[dlilazteca]

Alright parchment paper transfer are only for laser printers once you get your image transferred use some mop and Glo a couple of dots will do spread it out evenly with your partment paper let dry or dry with heat gun that's all you need

 

[LVVP]

Thanks for advises

 

[dlilazteca]

Justa FYI all this info is in the tips archive, make good use of the search button it will reveal many secrets.

 

[LVVP]

Justa FYI all this info is in the tips archive, make good use of the search button it will reveal many secrets.

Carlos,

You are right, thanks

 

[mitch]

to clarify: this is really NOT a toner adhesion or image transfer problem. to repeat, i get excellent quality images on the metal (literally like i sent the part itself thru my printer) and have no problem with the toner flaking off the varnish or fixative substrate- the toner is bonded very well, thanks. the problem is getting the transfer solution, either damar varnish or spray fix, to stop flaking/chipping off the metal as i engrave (and yes, the metal is F%&$#% CLEAN). i'm looking for a way to get the varnish/fixative to stick like death to the metal, and/or a way to make the varnish or fixative slightly softer or flexible (but NOT sticky, like uncured damar) and less prone to flaking/chipping. perhaps someone could suggest an additive* to the varnish & lighter fluid solution to accomplish either or both of these goals?

*just thought of something i'll try tomorrow...

 

[glstrcowboy]

What is the surface finish? If it's a mirror polish, you may be fighting a losing battle. Maybe a few swirls with fine scotchbrite would give it enough tooth to stay put.

 

[KCSteve]

It's been a while since I used the parchment transfer but when I did I also had some flaking. Generally not enough to be a problem though. Possibly your solution is too thick? When I had a bit flake it would be just a bit, not taking any other with it.

The other thing I think could be the problem is the surface finish of your metal - mine was ok, but a lot of the work you're doing I know you're doing on metal polished to absolute perfection. Perhaps it's just hard for the solution to stick to metal that finely polished. You could do a quick test by doing a transfer onto a GRS practice plate and seeing if it flakes on you. If it doesn't then you get the joy of finding out how to get it to stick to a super-polished surface.

 

[dlilazteca]

I already told him how, the rest is up to him to figure another way, or what was recommended. But the glossier the finish it will flake a tad.

 

[Beathard]

Mop and glo works

 

[dlilazteca]

One last thing I forgot to mention how you hold your hand peace also affects your transfer if you're doing your index finger on the top your transfer will last longer, and less dragof your palm on your transfer, if using the thumb on the side you're either going to drag your thumb on your transfer or your palm which can affect the flaking process

 

[Kevin Scott]

Maybe try coating the surface with a very light coat of Mop and Glo, dry thoroughly, then a light coat of your varnish. I use a foam pad like a cheap foam paintbrush to apply the Mop and Glo. Then dap, not wipe the surface with a dry foam pad to even out, and keep the coat light.

Seems I tried this at one time, but with the paint I use now, it was not needed. But it did work. The Mop and Glo is water based, so it will not mix with the varnish. Clean up is the same with alcohol.

 

[rod]

Mitch,

Bare metal, then apply Chinese white with a tiny bit moisture in the usual way with the finger, in a stirring motion.

Let dry, and give it a little bit of heat for a moment to make sure all is dry.

The Chinese White, as we know, is quite tenacious on the metal.

Do not apply any kind of varnish! The Chinese White is now a sort of blotting paper layer, and the baking paper transfer can be moved around lightly, and positioned carefully, without the toner coming off yet.

Now, if the workpiece is flat, applying heat alone should transfer the toner onto the chinese white layer, and it sort of permeates into the chalky texture, rather than just going onto the metal as a flake.

If it is flat, then some heat resisting intermediate layer of, say, asbestos substitute, with your small electric clothes iron on top will allow pressure to be evenly applied to the transfer area. The toner is now pretty darn difficult to budge off the surface, as you engrave.

In my case, this works well for me, when I am engraving flute rings ..... I carefully set the baking paper in place, wrapped around the wide ring, then I bind it by wrapping many turns of thread, to cover the design area. Winding thread on a cylinder is a cumulative pressure so the design is being pressed pretty hard all over. I then use my heat gun, to add some heat into the bore of the silver ring, up to approx 150C. This transfers great!

You can of course first try the thinned down damar varnish onto the Chinese White surface, and a straight burnish without heat, that alone might be tenacious, and if so it is faster?

Rod

 

[Roger B]

Mitch,
I seem to recall that the parchment transfer method was introduced as a way to transfer using an ink jet printer, not a laser printer. This could be the crux of your problem.

This was definitely a method using a laser printer first published by Rod Stannard