Partial Bluing Removal

Brian Hochstrat

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I have a job coming up that the piece will be blued and then have the scroll work in French grey, So I am wondering what the best way to do this, and what bluing removal chemical gives the nicest color of gray? Also, what can be used to prevent the grey from corrosion? Thanks. Brian
 

SamW

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Naval Jelly is the old standby that has been used for a lot of years for this and general blue removal. I find it gives an uneven tone and requires a lot of rubbing with a nonabrasive eraser to even out. The best remover I have used is Oxysolv sold by Eastwood Company, used in the auto restoration business or hobby. It gives a bright but even tone and is easy to use, just dabbing on with a q-tip then rinsing in hot water and give it a light coat of oil. I'm told chip-out-ground from Chronite works for the masking off but it is expensive due to shipping and I have not tried that. Hopefully some other engravers will chime in on that part. S
 

fegarex

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Brian,
There are many things you can use as stated above. Most of these products contain Phosphoric acid. That is the key ingredient. It is used in those "paint over rust" primers to neutralize any rust. When you do remove the blue, a good rinsing and oil should work well. The surface is "pickled" so to speak. It won't resist rust quite as well as blue but better than bare metal. I use Brownells Blue and Rust Remover full strength. I might not be any better than other products but I had it and it works for me. Marty Rabeno uses Lysol toilet bowl cleaner. I'm not sure if that contatins Phosphoric acid but I assume it does. The Brownell solution has a fairly heavy "body" to it and works well. I usually mask with nail polish or model paints. The key is to mask well. I've tried just using a fine brush and that works but I found that the fumes from the remover will attack the edges in time and make a ragged edge. Then it's reblue time again. It's worth the time to paint off any areas well and even cover the whole part in case you drip.
 

Mike Bissell

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Brian - I use the fegarex process myself. Just be sure to paint any area that you do not want the bluing removed with enamel paint. After the bluing has been removed and the area has been neutralized the enamel can be removed with acetone. Then oil.
Mike
 
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ED DELORGE

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Hello Brian, If I were doing a similar job I would first polish out the part or parts, engrave, blue then remove the bluing that you don't want to remain. McKinsey used to to that trick which looked great. Great example of a colt sheriff's model single action in R.L. Wilsons book on Colt Engraving. However, It is very tricky and hard to do. It is easy to remove the bluing from the back ground around the scroll unintentionaly. Then you start all over. I have never attempted it because of the degree of difficulty, but maybe others have a better way.

Good Luck.

Sam Welch, the example you gave of laying out a scroll pattern with the transparentcy a few weeks ago was excellent. (why didn't you show me that when I took your class 20 years ago)?

Ed DeLorge
 

Tim Wells

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For the record; the "active ingredient" so to speak in the toilet bowl cleaner is Hydrogen Chloride.

The main ingredient in circuit board etchant that some folks use to etch damascus is Ferric Chloride and is not nearly the same thing. John B has a good recipe as well. I have it somewhere in email form and I'll forward that to you when I get to work Thursday.
 

Brian Hochstrat

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Thanks for all the info guys. I have been busy and have'nt had time to get on the forum much. Just wanted to say thanks for all the information, it is a big help. Thanks Brian
 

monk

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ohhhh yuck. Naval jelly ?!?!? :eek: Is this something you apply, or something that comes out? :p
not to worry, a tiny dab of lysol, followed by a generous dose of 3 in one oil, i'ttl dry up by morning !:D :rolleyes:
 
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