Julia.J
Member
Hey, thanks Mitch! It's good to be back- the pug is waiting very patiently for its turn, apparently it's one of those projects that'll take a lifetime to get done...it grows an extra hair or two every once in a while though 
Oh, that makes sense! Have thought it would be easier for a beginner to start of engraving soft materials so had gathered copper/brass plates for the task, since I'm aiming to cut silver (which I'd most likely cut in half for it being super soft). It didn't cross my mind that it could be just too soft. Good thing is that the mild steel is easier to come by, so I'll add some to the growing scrap metal pile
Thank you!
:caution: C&c is most welcome, feel free to tear everything apart that you see here.
Cheers,
Julia
Can you provide more info on pnp paper. Thanks
Dave, I might be mistaken but I believe the PNP blue paper Julia is referring to is what is sold here as PNP Blue masking transfer sheets.
It's used for circuit board and jewelry masking before etching. But maybe her's is different, let's hear from Julia.
You can find info on the Internet with some pretty good instructions in PNP and it's use. Works with a laser printer.
Small quantities, 8 1/2 X 11 inch sheets can be bought for a couple of $$ each at Rings & Things.
Hiya! Long time no see.
I've had the most amazing time during the summer: we moved into a new apartment, I'm in the middle of furnishing a workspace (holy cow! An entire room) and wait...what.. I got married! whoo! life is good.
Anyway, I've learned to transfer images with both acetone/lazer printer method and with the blue pnp-paper, which is used by people who make their own circuit boards (etching).
The acetone method were more simple than I thought. The first time I tried this were quite of a letdown. The image transferred into the metal very poorly, but the problem was not because of the lazer print but the paper I used. I think that the normal printing paper is just too porous for the task and when I didn't have anything else to use, I ripped a sheet from a magazine, printed my image onto the glossy paper and the transfer came out quite good...but not perfect. So, instead of using pure acetone, I switched to nail-polish remover, smudged a thin layer to the metal and placed the magazine print to the puddle to soak through, then rubbed the image lightly and just to be absolutely sure to have every thin line transferred I heated the whole thing with an iron. When the ironing was done, I just soaked the whole thing in water for a while to remove the paper and the transfer were perfect.
The pnp paper were a bit more tricky, but I need it to make my next commission which involves etching, so I had to learn to use it. It took a whole day, but finally got it to work. The pnp works as an acid-resist so it's mostly used for etching. The work order is the same as with acetone. You print the image to the matte side of the paper, place it to the metal and then heat it with an iron. The areas/lines that are printed will show as blue, everything else will remain blank. Sounds easy, right? It wasn't. The transfers were not complete. The first error that I made was that the metal still had some grease and fingerprints and so the image didn't transfer. That was just my own stupidity. The second was that I constantly peeked to see if the image has transferred...don't do that! The result were better after I stopped being me, but what I missed were that the metal has to be heated first before the paper is placed and then I gently buffed the image in place with a cloth. That did the trick. I ironed the bundle for about 4 minutes and then let it soak in water before removing the film. These transfers are good, but the paper is quite expensive, so I'll be using pnp for etching and acetone for engraving
That's it for now, back to work.
Take care, Cya!
~Julia
Thanks John
I will check it out