What graver steels for what jobs?

[tim halloran]

Dani: I use x-7 for stainless steel knives and firearms, holds up really well. You need to dub the tip just like carbide. I don't use glensteel much but mostly for softer steel, brass, aluminum. Remember to use lubricant also.

 

[handengraver]

Dani, and highly esteemed fellow engravers: concerning the heel drag issue, as I spent most of my life with hand push solutions, please let me share my method of avoiding that problem.
In case of pointed tools, say with 15 degree lift V facets I set back my sharpener to 8 or nine degrees, and create a flat surface between the heel and the rough bottom of the blade.
That way the belly of the tool is less likely to touch on the engraved surface.
It also has a hidden benefit at sharpening. That flat surface has a rhomboid shape. If the rhomboid is symmetric, the new heel is correct. If it is crooked, one side of the facet should be sharpened further.
Basically this third facet gives the dynamics of a samurai sword to the bottom of the blade.

 

[dlilazteca]

I use centennial carbide 100 percent of the time, works on everything and is very durable, ive used it in both Lindsay and Grs equipment seems to last longer in the classic , not sure why. You cannot beat the price unless its free. Only option is in round stock, but that is not a problem for me, and should not be for any serious engraver just a learning curve you can master. You can buy 3/32 round or 1/16 round your choice. Here is a link.

I discovered these when I was starting out could not afford the store bought ones

Many have tried these and like them, Weldon Lister uses them for hammer and chisel work. Try them out cant go wrong with the price. If for any chance you dont like them send them to me for storage.

http://centennialcarbide.com/carbide-rod/

 

[Dani Girl]

The price of that centenial carbide makes me want to go and design a good way of holding it to sharpen.

Great for folk just starting out to setup with it and have that option.

Thanks for sharing that

 

[Ed Westerly]

I'm popping in a little late to this discussion, but here's my choices and why for graver stock.

I use Glensteel flats for most of my flare cutting. I have tried carbide, c-max, x-7 and others, and find that the surprise chipping causes me heartache, so I put up with Glensteel dulling and the increased sharpening is a smaller price to pay for no longer having to ask "when will it shatter?". I use a 55 degree face and roll the heel from 0-20 degrees. I mostly use Glensteel for my 90 degree square gravers, again with a 55 degree face but with flat 15 degree heel. Most of my work is in harder stainless, and I don't get into titanium, so I can't address their issues.

 

[Eugene Carkoski]

I am having a lot of breakage on some SS money clips both US and chinese made . I may have to change the temper of the material, I am using both m42 and carbide, any tight turn is going to brake the point.

 

[John B.]

Dani,
if you look through the Tips file you should find how I cement or solder 1/16 inch round carbide or cobalt into 3/32 inch square brass tubing.
That way they index for shaping and sharpening.
This will work with the 1/16 inch round Centennial carbide that Carlos recommends.
If you have problems finding the information please PM me.

 

[diandwill]

I use c-max in my 120 and do most traditional cutting with that. Bright cutting and flare cutting I use either c-max or glensteel, I have narrower gravers in the glensteel so if I need a narrower face I go that way.

I have learned (the hard way) that if you are bright cutting next to a gemstone, the c-max will also cut the stone. The glensteel doesn't as quickly or as easily, so I use glensteel when bright cutting 'bead and bright' settings, also in cleaning up channel type settings. I do a lot of Sterling Celtic pieces where I use the knot patterns as a type of channel to set colored gems. They need to be cleaned up after setting, so there's the glensteel again.

 

[dlilazteca]

Dani,
if you look through the Tips file you should find how I cement or solder 1/16 inch round carbide or cobalt into 3/32 inch square brass tubing.
That way they index for shaping and sharpening.
This will work with the 1/16 inch round Centennial carbide that Carlos recommends.
If you have problems finding the information please PM me.

Daniel.gerdes33@gmail.com, John B. is absolutely correct, I learned it from him, and I've never looked back!

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

 

[Archie Woodworth]

The price of that centenial carbide makes me want to go and design a good way of holding it to sharpen.

Great for folk just starting out to setup with it and have that option.

Thanks for sharing that

Dani, Just make the adapter that I show above (page 2) and replace the square one in the Lindsey fixture ... it holds the round carbide just fine ... additionally, don't forget to "index" the tool when a re-sharpen is necessary as described (that was you won't need to regrind all the surfaces).

 

[silverchip]

Bookmarked that link!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Brian Marshall]

And then, there will always be a place for the original carbon steel blanks.

It is much quicker to make "trick gravers" for softer metals like brass, copper, aluminum and all of the precious metals out of a blank that you can bend and harden yourself...

The longer you engrave and the more odd, seemingly inaccessible surfaces that you encounter - the more you will appreciate carbon steel versatility.

Some examples would be inside ring, inside bracelet, dogleg, spoon bowl gravers...


I once had to engrave some words (that would be censored on here) about a quarter of the way down inside a silver wine goblet.

Far enough down to be unnoticed when filled with red wine.

She was dressed "appropriately" when she handed him the filled goblet during their anniversary dinner - and waited 'till he saw the invitation...


Brian

 

[John B.]

Brian, You are right on about gravers.
I always preach that you use the "softest" graver that will do the job. Sharpen a little oftener but avoid disastrous point breaks.
It is surprising what can be cut with a graver made from oil hardening drill rod.
If it is heated to bright red, oil quenched, polished and then annealed to 325 degrees it will cut many things including guns.
A graver like this has a lot of toughness and can be bent into many special shapes before hardening.
You may sharpen a little more but you will avoid many sudden and disastrous breaks with lots of burnishing for repairs.

 

[JJ Roberts]

Back in the day I made all my graver's out of Starrett industrial hack saw blades they held up great with a good sharp edge and never had a problem with the tips braking when engraving with H&C or hand push. J.J.

 

[cylethomas]

I just want to thank everyone who contributed to this post.

It was helpful in navigating the ordering of new gravers.
As a goldsmith who is focused on stonesetting I've been
having challenges achieving the magical luster of a great
bright cut.

I think I just about ordered everything mentioned above.

Maybe in 2024 a honor.

Thanks again!

 

[Dani Girl]

I just thought I'd add to this thread that I've heard from a few folk that M48 is great for engraving titanium (chipping out less than carbide). available here https://www.airgraver.com/graver-blanks.htm only I think as it's one of Lindsay's steels and I don't think anyone retails for him as yet.