Blade engraving

[Matthew Evans]

Looking for tips on blade engraving. I am working with a local knifemaker and friend and have a blade to engrave before he quenches. I have heard that there is about a quarter shrinkage in the engraving itself but have also seen great detail on shading on other blades. Just looking for some tips for direction as most for me will be trial and error. Thank you in advance

 

[monk]

i did alot of custom blade work. most was pretty tough even when annealed. you doing h&c, or air assist ? not knowing what sort of vise and tools you have, it's tricky to give advice. i will say that a steeper face angle woulld be desirable, depending on how tough the steel is. the steeper angle is more resistant to breakage.

 

[Fred Bowen]

Perhaps your knife maker could supply you with a couple practice plates made of the same steel as his blades & in the same state as the ones he would have you engrave on.. Better to practice on something other than the finished product I would think.

 

[Matthew Evans]

.

 

[Matthew Evans]

Duely noted fred, i was going to just work on the tang since it would be covered, but ill ask him for some samples.

 

[monk]

Thanks monk,
Tools: updated gravermeister w/901
105 c-max gravers with fixture and sharpening wheel
No scope or dual angle fixture yet.

I assumed there was a trick for the graver geometry, so i appreciate the insight. Has anyone had success with heat treating gravers for better durability?

gravers of recent manufacture have no need to be heat treated. they are as tough as they will ever be. some of the old gravers, such as found on the bay, can be heat treated to improve their durability. the reason-- the jewelers of old worked mainly on gold, silver, copper, and pewter. those gravers didn't have to be heat treated
btw- use a very short heel if cutting tight curves. this prevents gouging of the curve wall. long heels are better for cutting straight lines. jmho