Any mistake can be fixed

[Big-Un]

True artistry of engraving is to be able to cover a mistake if it happens!!!!!!

As the late master Ken Hurst told me, "Everyone makes mistakes, the trick is to either fix it or incorporate it into the design." Of course, keeping mistakes to a minimum is the goal, not learning how to correct them as a course of action.

 

[Memorymaker]

Is there a book on fixing mistakes .......... if not then there should be ...... it would become an instant classic

 

[mdengraver]

If one attempted to write one, it might be there first mistake! Ha, Ha!

 

[jerrywh]

Go buy Sam welch's video on the FEGA web sight. That will help with most mistakes.

 

[WMS]

Go buy Sam welch's video on the FEGA web sight. That will help with most mistakes.

Could you post a link to this video, I am unable to locate it on the FEGA websight

 

[mdengraver]

Yes I looked at the FEGA videos but this video couldn't be found.

 

[Archie Woodworth]

What filler wire is best for filling pits in steel and who is the supplier.

 

[jerrywh]

I think its this one entitled (multi colored and iron inlays} second page. Best wire is plain old iron wire from the hardware store. It can be bought in many sises. I have some down to .010.
http://fega.com/prodserv/DVD.asp?dvdparam=DVD&categoryparam=video&offset=25

 

[Gordon]

Hello all, I'm a newbie here.
Let me just say that my files and stones are almost as important to me as my gravers at this point...

 

[papart1]

I've used mild steel tie wire the rusty stuff to fix pits,grinding gouges, and weld tracks in alot of pipe before. Might not be what you all want to hear but it worked for me for decades. papand passed x-ray also

 

[papart1]

I like the three eyed squirrel too, thats pretty cool!!!!

 

[Archie Woodworth]

I think its this one entitled (multi colored and iron inlays} second page. Best wire is plain old iron wire from the hardware store. It can be bought in many sises. I have some down to .010.
http://fega.com/prodserv/DVD.asp?dvdparam=DVD&categoryparam=video&offset=25

"best wire is plain old iron wire" ... That reminds me, I have some jewelry tie wire that I bought for holding items together while soldering...will give that a try. As I recall it is about the correct diameter. Will give that a try a little later today.

 

[SamW]

Just keep in mind...anneal it, clean it and give it a good setting punch with the base metal firmly held against movement.

 

[John B.]

"best wire is plain old iron wire" ... That reminds me, I have some jewelry tie wire that I bought for holding items together while soldering...will give that a try. As I recall it is about the correct diameter. Will give that a try a little later today.

Archie, binding wire comes in both carbon and stainless steel.
Much of it now is made in stainless steel to resist soldering.
Make sure to test it with a little cold blue before using.

 

[papart1]

To add to Mr. Archie's post, I used salt water to dip in, the corrosiveness of the sodium chloride will start the rust procedure in a matter of minutes........pap

 

[Stefan]

To add to Mr. Archie's post, I used salt water to dip in, the corrosiveness of the sodium chloride will start the rust procedure in a matter of minutes........pap

And it will not spoil the part and product? Corrosion will be in the metal. ??

 

[Archie Woodworth]

Archie, binding wire comes in both carbon and stainless steel.
Much of it now is made in stainless steel to resist soldering.
Make sure to test it with a little cold blue before using.

Thanks ... yep, I have is the "old school" version, iron wire. Just ran a little test on a practice steel plate with a PUK welder and it seemed to do fine. Still learning just what setting work best for various metals but looks real promising for repairing pits and slips on steel. Tried a little cold blue on repair and it looked OK...don't know if there will be any differences with hot blue tho.

As a side note, titanium welds great with the welder too. This is two 0.060" pieces fusion welded - no filler.

 

[papart1]

Mr. Stefan, the corrosion is minor and slightly on the surface which can be removed in any way you see fit, easily. Will not spoil the product assuming all rinsing and removal of the rust is followed. It is soft to begin with but annealing is always a good idea for any wire being used. Because I used them....s.s, monel,mild,nickelchrome, chrome of multiple percentages the surfaces ranged from pipe (raw mill finish) to plating, the biggest thing is to match the base finish and if you have to make a bigger oopsy...........a bigger oopsy I say to install you teeth to grab the addition of your wire/s. Big enougn to put teeth in. The majority of the time I did it, I melted to the base metal with, oxy/ace, or tig process, tig works the best. I HAVE NOT done any form of the repair on precious/jewelery stock, nor gun stocks. I hope this was informative and not babbeling. regards pap

 

[Stefan]

Papart 1! Everything is clear! Thank!

 

[SamW]

If welding to fill pits/errors make sure the filler metal used will not turn hard when it cools or graver tips will cry foul! I shortened a floorplate once by 1 1/4 inch and had a friend weld it back together. Very hard and took three attemps to anneal so it could be cut. The last one of those I have done I welded myself using SpoolArc Easy Grind mig wire and could not tell where the base metal and weld were joined. Worked great. Have no idea what difference hot blue would make between the two metals though. I never had any problems with rust blue, plating or case colors.

Another possibility is while you are cutting lines or removing background you can save curls of metal and use for inlaying small blemishes/errors with no worry about finish problems.