stainless steel money-clip solutions

[T.G.III]

If you're like me and at times have an issue with impulse buying before doing credible research then you are typically a problem solver by nature.

This post is for just such a solution.

Several years back I was looking for some inexpensive gifts when I happened upon a screaming deal for stainless steel money-clips, the brand name jewelers outlet had correctly identified them as 304 stainless (medical grade) I bought thirty of them. After cutting the first six or seven it was evident that they can be cut but they are not worth the effort, stuck them on a shelf and forgot about them. Doing some research later on provided the much needed information concerning cutting certain grades of stainless.

Just before Christmas this year my compressor gave up it's last cut, needing a dual purpose unit and not wanting big box store junk, it was ordered and took some time to arrive. Needing a project I found those money clips again, though they are miserable to cut with a graver they drill pretty good with cutting oil sharp drills and a bench -top drill press.

 

[monk]

that"s a good way to get out of the problem. why no engraving ?








/

 

[T.G.III]

Working it Sir, apparently the pencil and eraser is mightier than the graver................

 

[rmgreen]

Thinking outside the box! Way to go. Looking fwd to seeing the finished products.

 

[monk]

Working it Sir, apparently the pencil and eraser is mightier than the graver................

funny---- many, many folks have come to such a revelation

 

[Goldjockey]

For engraving directly on the finding, Thunderbird Supply in Albuquerque sells these: https://www.thunderbirdsupply.com/75quot-20ga-ns-money-clip-mc1

Cheap enough to use as practice plates, and if you're happy with the finished product, high quality enough to sell as a finished product. Sold as "Nickel Silver", although they're just plain nickel, and there's zero precious metal involved, or they wouldn't be available for about a buck and a half.

We've used them for decades as a base for heavy finely hand tooled sterling silver overlays (hand soldered to the base metal money clip).

I think Thunderbird has relatively low cost nickel buckle blanks as well.

 

[papart1]

Nice.......so how did the return bend side step cracking or snapping please? also how much protrusion did you allow for peaning? paps

 

[T.G.III]

Nice.......so how did the return bend side step cracking or snapping please? paps

Not sure I understand that question, these clips are pre-bent so it's just a matter of using sharp drills and cutting fluid so as not to build up too much heat and undue the temper, as far as how much pin material left protruding, that is a trial and error thing as it is dependent on the overall depth of the taper applied at the pin hole. (hope that makes sense)

 

[T.G.III]

funny---- many, many folks have come to such a revelation

Yeah, putting the cart ahead of the horse makes it so much more difficult to climb that learning curve..........

 

[Goldjockey]

If you're like me and at times have an issue with impulse buying before doing credible research then you are typically a problem solver by nature.

This post is for just such a solution.

Several years back I was looking for some inexpensive gifts when I happened upon a screaming deal for stainless steel money-clips, the brand name jewelers outlet had correctly identified them as 304 stainless (medical grade) I bought thirty of them. After cutting the first six or seven it was evident that they can be cut but they are not worth the effort, stuck them on a shelf and forgot about them. Doing some research later on provided the much needed information concerning cutting certain grades of stainless.

Just before Christmas this year my compressor gave up it's last cut, needing a dual purpose unit and not wanting big box store junk, it was ordered and took some time to arrive. Needing a project I found those money clips again, though they are miserable to cut with a graver they drill pretty good with cutting oil sharp drills and a bench -top drill press.





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Thinking out loud here, you may want to try steel rivets to affix the copper, brass or whatever other soft metal you're choosing to use, and once set, engrave the steel rivet heads to integrate into the design. As currently assembled, over time, and with use and flexion, the dissimilar hardness/ softness of the metals used will lead to the soft metal rivets loosening, and eventually the softer base metal or precious metal layer will separate from the steel entirely. How soon depends on how much use the money clip gets. If it mostly sits in a drawer, no problem. But if used daily the wear will occur rather quickly, and you'll likely end up refunding or replacing the item for your customer within a year or two.

If you silver solder, that's what I'd recommend you do. Faster, cheaper, and permanent. The portion of the clip you need to worry about is the bent section which provides the spring action. This can be heat synced by inserting a tight fitting steel rod though the widest portion of the opening, where the money clip bends or clamping a set of heavy steel tweezers through the same area. If the metal becomes annealed at the bend, the hardness can be restored by slipping a steel rod (mandrel) through, and firmly but evenly hammering around the bend (with a plain polished hammer) to work harden the hammered portion. Marks on the steel from hammering can be easily removed by sanding, or grey wheeling to a smooth surface. Still faster, cheaper, and more permanent than taking the time to rivet.

 

[T.G.III]

Thinking out loud here, you may want to try steel rivets to affix the copper, brass or whatever other soft metal you're choosing to use, and once set, engrave the steel rivet heads to integrate into the design. As currently assembled, over time, and with use and flexion, the dissimilar hardness/ softness of the metals used will lead to the soft metal rivets loosening, and eventually the softer base metal or precious metal layer will separate from the steel entirely. How soon depends on how much use the money clip gets. If it mostly sits in a drawer, no problem. But if used daily the wear will occur rather quickly, and you'll likely end up refunding or replacing the item for your customer within a year or two.

If you silver solder, that's what I'd recommend you do. Faster, cheaper, and permanent. The portion of the clip you need to worry about is the bent section which provides the spring action. This can be heat synced by inserting a tight fitting steel rod though the widest portion of the opening, where the money clip bends or clamping a set of heavy steel tweezers through the same area. If the metal becomes annealed at the bend, the hardness can be restored by slipping a steel rod (mandrel) through, and firmly but evenly hammering around the bend (with a plain polished hammer) to work harden the hammered portion. Marks on the steel from hammering can be easily removed by sanding, or grey wheeling to a smooth surface. Still faster, cheaper, and more permanent than taking the time to rivet.

Guess we're gonna find out how long the copper rivets hold up, didn't want to muck with the solder as plumbing torches (medically retired plumber) tend to way to much heat, these will go to family members etc. The steel rivets would work, just much more tedious to work with. The copper is .50 thick so that tends to reduce the overall flex.

Appreciate your input from a jewelers standpoint, thanks again.

 

[T.G.III]

..................

 

[T.G.III]

Appreciate your input from a jewelers standpoint, thanks again.

Seriously, not much information about how or more importantly why jewlers do what they do

 

[Goldjockey]

Seriously, not much information about how or more importantly why jewlers do what they do

Mostly, like everyone else, we're just looking for the most efficient way to get to a good end product that someone will vote for with their wallet.

 

[papart1]

I thought I edited the whole response .....gone. But didn't. I typed before re-reading the original post. Thunderbird was the ;last phrase that did not register.

 

[Bob Savage]

For engraving directly on the finding, Thunderbird Supply in Albuquerque sells these: https://www.thunderbirdsupply.com/75quot-20ga-ns-money-clip-mc1

Cheap enough to use as practice plates, and if you're happy with the finished product, high quality enough to sell as a finished product. Sold as "Nickel Silver", although they're just plain nickel, and there's zero precious metal involved, or they wouldn't be available for about a buck and a half.

We've used them for decades as a base for heavy finely hand tooled sterling silver overlays (hand soldered to the base metal money clip).

I think Thunderbird has relatively low cost nickel buckle blanks as well.

The price on these is excellent (sorry for resurrecting an older thread) so I bought some.

Question: How are you dealing with the work holding? I engraved one but opened the clip and slid a piece of leader inside to help reduce vibration then secured it at the sides with my vice, but getting it closed back up posed some challenges and I deformed the clip, thus, my curiosity.

Thank you!

 

[Goldjockey]

The price on these is excellent (sorry for resurrecting an older thread) so I bought some.

Question: How are you dealing with the work holding? I engraved one but opened the clip and slid a piece of leader inside to help reduce vibration then secured it at the sides with my vice, but getting it closed back up posed some challenges and I deformed the clip, thus, my curiosity.

Thank you!

Since the sides top and bottom are parallel, I just put the clip in an engraving vise with the top of the money clip even with the top of vise, and crank down until the piece is in there solidly.

 

[Bob Savage]

Since the sides top and bottom are parallel, I just put the clip in an engraving vise with the top of the money clip even with the top of vise, and crank down until the piece is in there solidly.

Oh, so I'm over-complicating things again. So just right in the vice jaws, no leather or anything on the inside of the jaw face to protect the clip?

Thanks for the quick reply!

 

[T.G.III]

Since the sides top and bottom are parallel, I just put the clip in an engraving vise with the top of the money clip even with the top of vise, and crank down until the piece is in there solidly.

Yup, that's how I did it.

 

[Goldjockey]

The price on these is excellent (sorry for resurrecting an older thread) so I bought some.

Question: How are you dealing with the work holding? I engraved one but opened the clip and slid a piece of leader inside to help reduce vibration then secured it at the sides with my vice, but getting it closed back up posed some challenges and I deformed the clip, thus, my curiosity.

Thank you

Oh, so I'm over-complicating things again. So just right in the vice jaws, no leather or anything on the inside of the jaw face to protect the clip?

Thanks for the quick reply!

Yep! Right in the vise jaws, Bob.