Dammar Varnish

[pmace]

Does anybody use Dammar resin crystals dissolved in anything other than turpentine? Maybe something that will let the resin set up a little bit harder? The interweb says that it's partially soluble in alcohol and before I bought a bag to try I'd thought I'd ask.

 

[papart1]

Try violin resin

 

[pmace]

Try violin resin

Violin resin is my normal transfer method. What I'm running into is that the heat and moisture from my fingers causes it to get tacky and eventually ruin the image. I've tried protecting it with hairspray and artist fixatives but they don't help. Dammar is a little less fragile but still smudges and takes longer to dry. Plus I hate the smell of turpentine. Still searching for that "magic potion" and was just wondering if the alcohol soluble portion of Dammar may be a little more durable. For $10.00 it's worth an experiment.

 

[mitch]

I've aways just used the Winsor & Newton stuff in the bottle. Didn't even know it came in "Folger's crystals"! ;-)

 

[Big-Un]

Mix in some lighter fluid to "encourage" drying faster.

 

[monk]

Try violin resin

ok, i give up. what is "violin resin"? never heard of the stuff. is that what stradavoracious used on his fiddle?

 

[pmace]

ok, i give up. what is "violin resin"? never heard of the stuff. is that what stradavoracious used on his fiddle?

As far as I can tell it's pine tree resin that's been refined a bit to get the twigs and bugs out and make it the right stickiness for stringed instrument bows. It comes packaged for musicians in a solid cake form. Amazon sells it in lots of variations. I use it dissolved in isopropyl alcohol or denatured alcohol (still experimenting with the solvent) in place of the store bought liquid Dammar Varnish.
Dammar is a resin from a different tree and seems to me to have a different stickiness. It too comes in solid resin form with the normal solvent being turpentine. I was just wondering if anyone has tried using a different solvent to dissolve Dammar before I tried. Who knows, we may stumble on the perfect transfer elixir.

 

[papart1]

Maybe Monk.....idk. Some one on this site gave the info to me. I posted as did others ......on the slightly changing characteristics of White's trany fluid. The end result was to enrich with violin resin. So I got on Amazon and bought me up some. It works.

 

[Dave London]

I use lighter fluid aka naphtha , 10% dammar varnish .MTC YMMV

 

[Brant]

I try to stay away from naphtha. I used to work in bulk petroleum transport, and we always referred to it as “Cancer in a Can”. It really is nasty stuff for your brain, liver, and central nervous system, not to mention birth defects for exposure by pregnant females.

Just my experience.

 

[Dave London]

All petroleum products have a risk factor, the very small amount used and the quick flash off . Dont eat it , use in a well ventilated area.
As always YMMV

 

[tdelewis]

I have been reading this and wondered if anyone out there has tried shellac flakes dissolved in alcohol? It would leave a sticky surface.

My preferred method when using ink jet and transparence is using a Prismacolor 40% gray blending marker. You can find them at most art supply stores. It is cheap and not messy. I see that Tira Mitchell is selling a Prismacolor on her website for transfer purposes.

 

[Dave London]

I sometimes use the shellac flakes just use a soft heat source, just like hot glue

 

[Adder]

I`am using shellac fluid bought in a hardware store With a dash of denatured alcohol(methylated spirit) and its get tacky, and it Works for me. I have also tried Winsor & Newton dammar varnish with the same result.
I don't think it matters what varnish you use, just it gets sticky and dries relative fast. A bigger % of alcohol, turpentine or lighter fluid, the solution will be thinner an it will dry faster....A light coat with spraypaint will probably do the trick as well.
YMHO

Jørn-Ove

 

[tdelewis]

I really think that the real issue with transfers is not what you put on the metal but what type of printer and the type of ink it uses.