Background

[pmace]

How fussy do you need to be with the finish on the background before you stipple it? I notice that if there are any tracks left by the flat gravers it will show through the stippling. Am I doing the stippling wrong? I’m using a needle sharp round graver and digging the background up pretty well. Thoughts?

 

[tdelewis]

Keep the background level. You don't need to dig up the background, just nice even stipple and complete coverage. No shiny spots.

 

[AllenClapp]

It is possible that the culprit is the sharp needle point. If the stipple marks are very small and round, it will be easier to see any piece of a straight flat graver background removal cut that isn't totally obliterated. Try using three or four flat sides to make your stippling point. That may do a better job of hiding any little piece of straight background removal cut and giving you a darker background. If that doesn't do it, try making a last pass with the flat gravers at a different angle to smooth the area more before stippling.

 

[pmace]

It is possible that the culprit is the sharp needle point. If the stipple marks are very small and round, it will be easier to see any piece of a straight flat graver background removal cut that isn't totally obliterated. Try using three or four flat sides to make your stippling point. That may do a better job of hiding any little piece of straight background removal cut and giving you a darker background. If that doesn't do it, try making a last pass with the flat gravers at a different angle to smooth the area more before stippling.

Figured it out. I had my handpiece set way too high. I turned it down and I’m getting a nice pattern now. The bottom isn’t perfect with a divot here and there but they don’t telegraph through to the top.

 

[Andrew Biggs]

The bigger the area the flatter your background needs to be before stippling otherwise you can see variations in the stippling and they stick out like dogs balls!!!
Small areas not so much.
You can also punch your background to get an even surface for stippling.
If you have variations in the stippling keep going over the area in small circling motions till it has evened out.......you can also finish off by lightly going over the areas in question using your normal eyesight or optivisor and not the microscope. The microscope lighting can sometimes flatten things out.

The background is every bit as important as the foreground so spend some time getting it right. These small things are the difference between and amateur and a professional.

Cheers
Andrew

 

[pmace]

The bigger the area the flatter your background needs to be before stippling otherwise you can see variations in the stippling and they stick out like dogs balls!!!
Small areas not so much.
You can also punch your background to get an even surface for stippling.
If you have variations in the stippling keep going over the area in small circling motions till it has evened out.......you can also finish off by lightly going over the areas in question using your normal eyesight or optivisor and not the microscope. The microscope lighting can sometimes flatten things out.

The background is every bit as important as the foreground so spend some time getting it right. These small things are the difference between and amateur and a professional.

Cheers
Andrew

Thanks Andrew. Now that I’m not digging up the background by having the handpiece set too high I can see a nice pattern of dots. I’ll have to try punching the background to even it out before stippling. That sounds better than trying to grind away the divots. As I get better with the little flats hopefully things get more even. Plus I’ve found you have to be just as careful with the cross hatching as you are anything else. Chasing a deep line is a pain.

 

[John B.]

A help in producing good, smooth stippling is to first go over the area with a texture punch.
When you have the background removed and fairly flat, texture it with the punch before you stipple.
Make the punches from oil hardening drill rod. Cut them into suitable length pieces.
Flatten the cut end with a file. Then texture the end by cutting a cross hatch pattern with a fine liner.
Or carefully tap the cut, smooth end against a file to transfer the pattern.
You can even create a fine texture punch by tapping the end against coarse sandpaper backed by a steel block.
File or grind the textured ends to a small diameters or various wedge shapes.
Make several, in a variety of shapes and sizes. Harden them, and then slightly anneal the texture punch.
Always wear eye protection when using this or any punch.

 

[pmace]

Thanks John. That’s a cool way to help get the divots out and get everything as even as possible. Jeez, who would have thunk background was so complicated?