I knew that using a jewelers saw can be challenging, especially if it is exercised very little. Well I;m finding that out. 6 Texas stars later, cutting and shaping should be done at least twice a week minimum.
Trials
- Thread starter papart1
- Start date
i have about ten pounds of blades i have made quite a bit shorter than they were designed to be. you know, dull !
What brand of saw blades are you using? I only use Pike or Herkules blades,there is a lot of junk blades out there.
tdelewis
Elite Cafe Member
Blades will brake if you are turning the saw rather than turning the work.
Sawing with too much force or having a loose blade will cause blades to brake.
Cutting motion comes from the elbow not the wrist. Be relaxed and use long even strokes.
Start sawing with a slight angle and then move to vertical, 90 degrees.
Use a blade lubricant.
Make sure you have a good stable bench pin.
Bench pin should be nearly eye level so you can be more relaxed while working.
Use long even strokes.
The thinner the metal the finer the blade. I think the rule is to have at least two teeth in the metal to do the cutting.
You may find it useful to put a piece of something like framing mat under the work piece while cutting especially when starting the cut.
These are suggestions I found from various sources. In spite of following all the suggestions I still brake blades, not just as often as I once did.
Sawing with too much force or having a loose blade will cause blades to brake.
Cutting motion comes from the elbow not the wrist. Be relaxed and use long even strokes.
Start sawing with a slight angle and then move to vertical, 90 degrees.
Use a blade lubricant.
Make sure you have a good stable bench pin.
Bench pin should be nearly eye level so you can be more relaxed while working.
Use long even strokes.
The thinner the metal the finer the blade. I think the rule is to have at least two teeth in the metal to do the cutting.
You may find it useful to put a piece of something like framing mat under the work piece while cutting especially when starting the cut.
These are suggestions I found from various sources. In spite of following all the suggestions I still brake blades, not just as often as I once did.
Thanks guy's............my tension on the blades are such that not a whole lot of blades are broken, I have to regain my "attack" and steer more gooder!! Fine blade, ,using them on ..020 copper and wax for the juice?
rweigel
Elite Cafe Member
I wipe the sides of the blades with candle wax in the direction of the teeth for lubrication. Sticky stuff like oil, burr saver or pure beeswax did not work so well. Most breaks occure to me on the upward stroke, when some chip of silver jams the blade in the cut and the workpiece lifts up against my left hand.
I use mostly Antilope or Goldschnecke blades, usually # 4 or 2 for 0.5 to 3 mm thick Sterling silver. The width of the cut matters to me, ’cause of the amount of material reduced to chips. Even among the famous brands, there are blades that do not cut straight.
Cheers
Ralf
I use mostly Antilope or Goldschnecke blades, usually # 4 or 2 for 0.5 to 3 mm thick Sterling silver. The width of the cut matters to me, ’cause of the amount of material reduced to chips. Even among the famous brands, there are blades that do not cut straight.
Cheers
Ralf
I use Rio Grande saw blade Laser Gold made in Switzerland with bee wax. J.J.
el cheapo on the dinero
wild willie
Member
- Joined
- Jun 27, 2022
- Messages
- 20
my dad always told me to let the saw do the sawing and the drill do the drilling, we are just guiding the tool. i dont hold the saw so rigid in my hand, a little give makes it easier to to move and guide the blade with out breaking. hope that helps.
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