Critique Request Knife I did.

[Sageoconnell]

This one I finished a few weeks ago. My first time cutting stainless steel. I couldn’t get over how many times I broke off the top of my graver. But it was a great learning experience.

Thanks for looking
Sage.

 

[papart1]

Lookin pretty sweet

 

[Artist007]

Good work!

 

[Sageoconnell]

Lookin pretty sweet

Thank you.

 

[Sageoconnell]

Good work!

Thank you

 

[vondershred]

Very nice!

Did you sharpen the gravers that broke off to proceed with the graver you just fixed? Or did you have other gravers available ready to go and re-sharpened the broken gravers after the work was done? Curious and still learning, have yet to engrave something in stainless and I wonder how to stay “in the zone” after a tip breaks.

Cheers!

 

[Sageoconnell]

Very nice!

Did you sharpen the gravers that broke off to proceed with the graver you just fixed? Or did you have other gravers available ready to go and re-sharpened the broken gravers after the work was done? Curious and still learning, have yet to engrave something in stainless and I wonder how to stay “in the zone” after a tip breaks.

Cheers!

No I only have a few carbide gravers, and only one 105*, so I had to stop and sharpen every time it happened. I found taking lighter passes seem to help with being able to go longer in between breaking off the tip. But I’m also pretty new to this maybe someone can answer this better.

 

[coincutter]

Nice work. I've done a few of those beasties in the past. They are not fun. You've done a great job. If you can post a pic of your graver tip. (through the scope) I suspect your face angle is off and you are turning a curve faster than your graver can cut with a point that buries itself into the metal. Tap lube would be a plus.

 

[Leland Davis]

I have engraved a lot of the Kershaw leeks and the stainless is hard. Did you disassemble the knife to engrave it? I used to take them apart and anneal the scales. That helps but gluing them to a hardwood block is the key for me, vibration is a tip killer. A 120 degree with a 50 degree face works best for me. coincutter is right and you are turning to fast or a myriad of other mistakes we all make. Part of this will go away with experience but it will never be gone. Nice job and keep at it.

 

[Sageoconnell]

Nice work. I've done a few of those beasties in the past. They are not fun. You've done a great job. If you can post a pic of your graver tip. (through the scope) I suspect your face angle is off and you are turning a curve faster than your graver can cut with a point that buries itself into the metal. Tap lube would be a plus.

Thank you. I think you’re absolutely correct it’s always when I’m doing a tight turn. I think I’m trying to take out to much on a single pass. I’m working on some other stainless stuff and I am taking lighter cuts and trying to pay attention.

 

[Sageoconnell]

I have engraved a lot of the Kershaw leeks and the stainless is hard. Did you disassemble the knife to engrave it? I used to take them apart and anneal the scales. That helps but gluing them to a hardwood block is the key for me, vibration is a tip killer. A 120 degree with a 50 degree face works best for me. coincutter is right and you are turning to fast or a myriad of other mistakes we all make. Part of this will go away with experience but it will never be gone. Nice job and keep at it.

Thank you. I did disassemble the knife and screwed it down through the holes to a block of wood. I did find a steeper face angle seems to help it’s just trading off a lil on seeing what I’m doing.

 

[Leland Davis]

Hot glue will stop the vibration better than the screws. Melt a thick layer of glue onto the block set the scale into it carefully, the entire back of the scale is supported.

 

[Sageoconnell]

Hot glue will stop the vibration better than the screws. Melt a thick layer of glue onto the block set the scale into it carefully, the entire back of the scale is supported.

Thank you I will definitely try that next time.

 

[BobGibson]

Sage, I'm not sure if you've looked at them yet, but Byrd by Spyderco are well made, affordable knives that cut fairly well.

 

[Sageoconnell]

Sage, I'm not sure if you've looked at them yet, but Byrd by Spyderco are well made, affordable knives that cut fairly well.

Thank you. Yeah I’ve been seeing a lot of people doing spyderco knives. I plan on getting one soon and trying one out. I even noticed some guys selling copper and brass scales for certain models making them easier to engrave.

 

[papart1]

I have engraved a lot of the Kershaw leeks and the stainless is hard. Did you disassemble the knife to engrave it? I used to take them apart and anneal the scales. That helps but gluing them to a hardwood block is the key for me, vibration is a tip killer. A 120 degree with a 50 degree face works best for me. coincutter is right and you are turning to fast or a myriad of other mistakes we all make. Part of this will go away with experience but it will never be gone. Nice job and keep at it.

LeLand the reference to "coincutter" means?

 

[coincutter]

LeLand the reference to "coincutter" means?

He referenced my response.

 

[alwayslearning2012]

My first time cutting stainless steel. I couldn’t get over how many times I broke off the top of my graver. But it was a great learning experience.

I applaud your diligence. Your work looks amazing to my eyes. Stainless is a tough animal. Sounds like you had the same experience, as I did. And also the great satisfaction of the learning experience. (not a road I would choose to go down again soon.) Ahhh, the graver sharpening that comes with stainless.....

Did I hear a chuckle for the audience?

I really like the work. the scrolls, and shading are awesome, and I really like the selected background. They work well together. As I work in construction, this particular knife model is a common choice among workers.

It's really nice.

AL12

 

[Mikedraw]

Beautiful job!