the old puma

[papart1]

I'm hoping it'll turn out.............exceptable that is

 

[papart1]

I think I'm on my way with the dot/line system from Mr. DeCammilis

 

[papart1]

I'm hoping it'll turn out.............exceptable that is

thanks JJ...........still working on it, takes a long time

 

[allan621]

Bulino is tough to learn but Chris makes it easier to understand. No curved lines, certain kind of tools and being able to look at a drawing and make mental notes of how it would be cut. Takes time but worth it. One step at a time. I admire your taking the time to learn this. I never went far with bulino, hoping you'll keep with it. Can't wait to see the progress.
Allan

 

[John B.]

Looks good so far. And the EYES have real sparkle and life.

 

[papart1]

Thank you all for the kind and inspiring thoughts. BTW.........I use a transfer for the entire procedure.

 

[Dani Girl]

I often wonder at the folk who say they just draw the design straight onto the metal, I admit I'm transferring too. It's hard to photograph bulino. I get the light on it... tap on the engraving (on my phone) and then drag the light balance so the whole thing is much darker. Keep going and sharing.

 

[papart1]

He's started on the plate

 

[papart1]

I often wonder at the folk who say they just draw the design straight onto the metal, I admit I'm transferring too. It's hard to photograph bulino. I get the light on it... tap on the engraving (on my phone) and then drag the light balance so the whole thing is much darker. Keep going and sharing.

Dani.........papart1 (Rob) here. I find a pic somewhere, scan to affinity photo, do what I want, print, scan the printed page, print with film, transfer THEN make 3-4 transfers to use

 

[Mike576]

I often wonder at the folk who say they just draw the design straight onto the metal, I admit I'm transferring too. It's hard to photograph bulino. I get the light on it... tap on the engraving (on my phone) and then drag the light balance so the whole thing is much darker. Keep going and sharing.

For transferring I use procreate on my iPad. I make the opacity about 60% then trace over all the main distinguishing features like the eyes, nose, main lines of feathers, changes in lighting etc. then I transfer just the lines to the metal with a standard acetone transfer. Gives me accurate clean lines which make the proportions come out correct. The rest is up to getting the various textures, lighting, and contrast correct.

 

[Mike576]

Once the transfer is done I go over it with light dot cuts to outline everything so I can remove the transfer. These dots are tiny and spaced apart like in this photo. Hopefully this helps! Getting the layout and proportions correct was the hardest part for me when I first started bulino.

 

[papart1]

Once the transfer is done I go over it with light dot cuts to outline everything so I can remove the transfer. These dots are tiny and spaced apart like in this photo. Hopefully this helps! Getting the layout and proportions correct was the hardest part for me when I first started bulino.

Like to see that when completed please. Rob

 

[papart1]

For transferring I use procreate on my iPad. I make the opacity about 60% then trace over all the main distinguishing features like the eyes, nose, main lines of feathers, changes in lighting etc. then I transfer just the lines to the metal with a standard acetone transfer. Gives me accurate clean lines which make the proportions come out correct. The rest is up to getting the various textures, lighting, and contrast correct.

probly can do with inkjet too......................I don't have the pro yet, saving for the next 10 years

 

[papart1]

For transferring I use procreate on my iPad. I make the opacity about 60% then trace over all the main distinguishing features like the eyes, nose, main lines of feathers, changes in lighting etc. then I transfer just the lines to the metal with a standard acetone transfer. Gives me accurate clean lines which make the proportions come out correct. The rest is up to getting the various textures, lighting, and contrast co

Once the transfer is done I go over it with light dot cuts to outline everything so I can remove the transfer. These dots are tiny and spaced apart like in this photo. Hopefully this helps! Getting the layout and proportions correct was the hardest part for me when I first started bulino.

So Mr. Mike..........the transfer is sent to the printer, then the transfer film is used with the edited opacity printed on the film, reversed of course?

 

[papart1]

For transferring I use procreate on my iPad. I make the opacity about 60% then trace over all the main distinguishing features like the eyes, nose, main lines of feathers, changes in lighting etc. then I transfer just the lines to the metal with a standard acetone transfer. Gives me accurate clean lines which make the proportions come out correct. The rest is up to getting the various textures, lighting, and contrast correct.

the tracing part for me would be a challenge.....

 

[JJ Roberts]

When engraving games scenes on guns I draw animals or birds direct on the metal and engrave them with a hand push graver and only transfers are the scrolls. J.J.

 

[papart1]

For transferring I use procreate on my iPad. I make the opacity about 60% then trace over all the main distinguishing features like the eyes, nose, main lines of feathers, changes in lighting etc. then I transfer just the lines to the metal with a standard acetone transfer. Gives me accurate clean lines which make the proportions come out correct. The rest is up to getting the various textures, lighting, and contrast correct.

Mike, what model ipad do you recommend for doing what we do or I attempt to do please

 

[Mike576]

Mike, what model ipad do you recommend for doing what we do or I attempt to do please

I have the iPad Pro 12.9 gen 5

you don’t need such a powerful iPad to use procreate though. The nicer the iPad the more layers you can add to a drawing based on the amount of system ram. When I’m drawing i usually have the layers as follows
1) a photo of the object
2) an outline of the object traced with a thin line pen tool
3) the backbones of all scrolls so I can mess with them a bunch till I get the basics right
4 and 5 are my working layers as I draw the details of scroll
6) the shading
7) the animal or object I want to add if I’m doing an inlay or the like

I have never used more than 10 layers.
Even an iPad Air gen 4 which you can get for about 450$ can do 19 layers at a high resolution. Depending on your budget look into an old generation iPad Pro. Quick google search will tell you based on the generation how many layers you can do. I do recommend the larger screen size if you can get one. Nice to have!

 

[Mike576]

the tracing part for me would be a challenge.....

What do you think would be the challenge for you about the tracing? I find this to be a pretty simple step. Drag your photo in, size it to the canvas, make it lighter opacity, then trace a few key areas to follow later. Nice thing about procreate is you can adjust the stabilization of the pen being used if you don’t have a steady drawing hand. It will automatically adjust your stroke in real time to make the a smoother line of curve.

 

[Mike576]

Like to see that when completed please. Rob

I’ll make sure to upload when I’m done I’m about 75% done with just the head at the moment. Maybe 20% overall, lots of dark areas will take a while!