Sure can, just have to watch your light's heat - gels can withstand quite a bit of heat (and moisture) and one can re use these for many years - and are pretty cheap. Old pieces of bed sheets are good too, so is bleached muslin.
You can also diffuse your key light source. Piece of 251 or 250 (photographic diffusion gels) - these can even be temporarily taped right onto your light source - the loss of light will be minimal but effect is very pleasing and can be easily controlled by varying distance from the light or to...
Del Ray Siena is what works for me. I ordered brown some time ago but it did not last as long as Siena - but I could not tell what is the actual difference aside from that. 240 and 400 are good starters for enamel if I don't want to use JoolTool. Just have to watch sanding direction to not...
Don't know about guns etc but for enamel work (I do mostly traditional champleve) - my preference is also diamond coated sanding media. For small items, JoolTool's glass sending kit has been a 'godsend' - I can go from rough to final in few minutes - and into the final firing.
There is one...
Fascinating stuff!
Seems it is difficult to tell at times if things were engraved, chased or even done in the 'repousse' techniques - often combining some or all. Photos can be deceiving.
A good example being some of the work done by artist known as Nicholas of Verdun, active around 1180...
Hello all,
Wanted to spark a conversation about gravers throughout history - their known (perhaps documented) profiles and how far back do these go.
I would imagine that some sort of steep angle-end graver was at the heart of it all - or was it?
Studying old armour and military arms and...
Great, sounds like our setups are quite similar. When working on copper, I never seem to get the same level of 'shine-reflection' as I get on fine silver - sterling is better but not as consistent as on fine silver. I guess many colours seem a bit duller when over flux on copper - unless we go...
Paul, curious to hear what you decided in regards to the tools.
I do fair bit of champlevé in silver (and less so on copper) and I engrave 'bottom' details (instead of the more popular silver fusing or even acid etching techniques). On occasion, I also combine engraving with cloisonne wires...
Hello all,
Did a small experiment with small piece of steel (reasonably hard but not best quality) and small (rushed) inlay with copper wire (dead soft jeweler's wire).
Entire piece is about 1" x 3/4".
1. Gave steel bit of a grind/polish followed by rough inlay, I left the edges purposely rough...
I do fair bit of glass enameling on copper and heating to circa 1400 will more than likely result in developing some firescale - unless you can do it in oxygen free environment. This can be cleaned and removed, just something to keep in mind. At times, firescale on copper can be stubborn though...
Gentlemen,
Thanks for more input. Sam, yes it is Small Block and I was not able to get it apart. What seems to have worked was sliding a very thin piece of stainless steel between the two halves which sort of 'lifted' the top half by a tiny fraction. I had to grind and polish the edge to super...
Thank you very much everyone and thank you Jonathan for the PDF!
I guess mine is a bit stuck since it does not want to come apart. I will try 'harder'.
I did contact GRS but they wanted me to send it in for cleaning - this is not what I had in mind though.
My older GRS ball vise is suddenly not turning properly (there seems to be a rough spot when turning - for lack of better description) - I would like to take it apart and give it a cleaning. How does it come apart?
I took the threaded rod out but what do I do next?
Thanks in advance.
SS is typically hard to solder to using low heat process.
Tix solder might do it, just use 'tix' brand flux and since you will need to heat much of the flask - might need to use 'anti-flux' to limit flow of flux-solder. You might be able to limit the flow with fresh sharpie 'border' as well.
If...
Thank you very much guys!
This definitely gives me ideas and things to try. The more I practise the easier it should get (in theory at least). Silver is just so easy to damage.
I really like the idea of cutting much narrower first and then doing final cuts after the relief work - thank you...
Question for the experienced folks here, in my learning work with very small items (1" and less) - I have been struggling with deeper relieving of the fine (sharp) 'v' ends, especially if these fall at the very end of any kind of a scroll work or similar curved surrounding. I find when...