Like Mitch, no real change here. I once thought to become a hermit but decided I could not be that nice ALL the time.
Marty, sunshine and snow...springtime in the Rockies!
This is a Lefever project themed Sharptail Grouse. These three feathers are the Alula attached to the wing skeletal...
Jerry, those were mostly HSS gravers plus a square HSS and a stainless blank. All could be heated and bent and then re-heat treated. Plus shaping the points for proper use.
Here are tools I bent to get around the 6 uprights on the guitar tuner base. Some of the lines had to be scribed in.
They are HHS tools heated, bent and re-hardened.
Rob, I had the same reaction when I first started studying scroll...'they didn't really touch'. But came to realize the need for a smooth continuous line for the backbone to make the scroll look right to the naked eye. Not to mention it made cutting the backbone doable.
If you like open...
The space between tendril/leaf and backbone is the width of a single cut. It is more a matter of consistency. With a good bit of extra time one could make them actually touch but I don't see that as needed. When I draw the scroll on the metal, they touch.
When looked at with naked eye, the...
Much better...diffused lighting would make them really pop. Here is what I use, hanging below a 4 ft. light fixture...2 coat hangers held apart with wood dowels and covered with freezer paper. Hanging over my vise. Cheap but very effective.
When posting photos to this site I resize to 6 inches largest dimension and a resolution of about 120 pixels per inch (150 in this case because it is narrow) which gives file sizes in a usable range of under 400kb when saved as a jpeg. The file size is variable in the PS Elements software...
Numbering the scrolls 1 through 6 from left to right...numbers 1, 4 and 6 come off their start points in the opposite flow that they should.
Number 1 should come off like number 3 does, number 4 like number 2 (in other words flipped vertically).
When drawing on metal with a scribe keep this in mind. The metal needs to be polished to a well worn 600 grit w/d to remove any scratches/tool marks. If you do not polish this high you will have to scribe deeper and harder to be able to see it and correcting or removing will be difficult...