Question: 316 stainless

Jared Eason

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So. Would all agree that 316 stainless steel be the best for engraving and jewelry. I'm using 304 now. But will be resupplying soon, and wanted to know what I should get.
 

Andrew Biggs

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316 stainless is quite workable........316L is what most stainless watches are made of because it won't rust and has anti-magnetic properties etc. However it would not be my metal of choice to work on as it is gummy and not user friendly.

416 stainless is great to work with. You might also check out the stainless that GRS uses for their key fobs etc as that is also nice to work on. (not sure of the number on that one)

For jewellery that is different again depending on what you want to do. Silver and gold are the main ones for that....and Arnaud has had great success with his titanium which looks great. But if you wanted to make key fob type things then stainless is a good alternative. Rings are now becoming popular in stainless.

One of the things you want to be very aware of is the rust factor. Clients are not used to oiling metal jewellery so be careful.

So there are no "one metal suits everything" type answers.

Cheers
Andrew
 
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Jared Eason

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I make stainless belt buckles, and weld the backings on. I need to be able to tig weld on whatever I get nicely. I have welded on 316 before so I know its OK. I also make bangles, rings, pendants out of stainless. I have always used 304. But as yall know by now I have recently got into hand engraving, and have read the 316 engraves well . I can cut the 304 OK but struggle with hand ,depth control. And rust proof is a factor. I do not want to make my wares out of anything that rust.
 

tim halloran

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Jason: The chromium content is what determines whether steel is stain resistant, usually over 13 percent. The 400 grades have carbon in them, which makes them magnetic as well as heat treatable. Most 300 grades have very little carbon content which lessens their machineability, and i have engraved some 304 and 303 that was miserable to cut.
 

bram ramon

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I worked wit 316 and 316ti there is not directly a difference between them and 304. A tip never take cold forged plate etc. It won't cut. 316 etc cut's quit great if it is milled out ore turned the structure of the steel to the center of block ore bare is different.
 

Red Green

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What Bram is saying I think is the steel work hardens. This will cause the surface to cut different than under the surface the depth is dependent on the treatment and the alloy. Any metal that will work harden will do so if it is rolled cold, to undo the hardening it must be annealed. So if you want to use metal that work hardens in a soft state you need to buy it annealed or anneal it yourself. I think 416 corrodes fairly slowly outside the use of electrolysis, a little wax should protect it, but I wouldn't use it for implants. Anybody have a bad experience with 416?

Bob
 

Red Green

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The technique would be the same but depending on the alloy it may require a oxygen free atmosphere to do so. So you will need to consult with the manufacturer for the particulars.

Bob
 

Jared Eason

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I guess this isn't going to be as easy I I thought to figure out what I need to get.lol thanks for the help again guys
 

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