A couple free tips...

mitch

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1) Instead of Chinese white, etc., try a thin schmear of damar varnish. You can draw on it with an ordinary pencil pretty well and it doesn't flake as badly when applied over a very clean surface.

2) If you're trying to grip an odd-shaped/tapered/angled object in your vise jaws but it keeps slipping one way or another before you can get the vise quite tight enough, try putting some hot glue on the contact points. For a real tough situation you can even hot glue it to the jaw faces, but I find most of the time I just need a layer of glue for extra traction. I have a pair of leather jaw pads that have a thin layer of hot glue on both sides for holding things like single-shot receivers that never quite seem to have two exactly opposing surfaces to grip.
 

JJ Roberts

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If your engraving gun steel stay away from Chinese white I left it on overnight after my layout removed it the next day and found light coating of rust,had to hand polish and start all over.Now use bees wax & tallow mixed and baby powder for layout. J.J.
 

gcleaker

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I have been using beeswax mixed with graphite melted to gather for layout. I put paint mixing sticks aginst the vise jaws. It let's the work piece bite the wood and helps to hold the work tight without damaging it.
 
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gcleaker

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Good tips Mitch.

I learned from Ken Hunt (on Facebook) that if you sprinkle some baby powder on the Damar then rub it in to spread it evenly it gives a nice white surface for drawing.
And now I can see the forest, all this time the tree's have been in the darn way.
 
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rrupp

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And now I can see the forest, all this time the tree's have been in the darn way.
its funny how we find things that work. i like so many started with James Meeks book and started with Chinese white. i still use it a lot, i just use a thin layer to cut the shine off and draw with a .03 hard pencil. when i transfer a cut i use Sams transfer wax. i caught something from Roger. i tried damar and baby powder but it was always uneven. i would dust it on and let it dry. Never thought about rubbing it in to get a uniform coating. sometimes i don't think.
 

troutbox

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am i crazy or what? i gave up on chinese white and other things and just use a pencil. then a fine point sharpie when i'm happy with something......an ordinary pencil eraser takes off the sharpie for tweaking.....
 

gcleaker

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its funny how we find things that work. i like so many started with James Meeks book and started with Chinese white. i still use it a lot, i just use a thin layer to cut the shine off and draw with a .03 hard pencil. when i transfer a cut i use Sams transfer wax. i caught something from Roger. i tried damar and baby powder but it was always uneven. i would dust it on and let it dry. Never thought about rubbing it in to get a uniform coating. sometimes i don't think.
Me to, and brother how.
 

monk

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crazy ? maybe. i have used suitably sized chunks of crumpled aluminum foil to hold things that just refuse to be held other ways.
 

troutbox

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" i have used suitably sized chunks of crumpled aluminum foil"

now that's a great idea! (not kidding)....plus i have lots after i take it off my head.
 

Big-Un

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the doctors put that foil on yer head for a reason. don't ever remove it !
AKA: Tom Ter-r-i-i-f-f-fic!!!! Might help keep the dumb thoughts away too.
When I first started out I used damar varnish sprinkled with baby powder, daubing it in with my fingertips, the brushing the excess off with a shaving brush. (didn't need the brush anymore since I had a beard)
 

DKanger

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Nothing new here but I just dust the piece with flat white Rustoleum paint. It doesn't smear and is easily removed with acetone.
 

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