Advice on points for fine lines

[Rannis]

It’s been a while since I’ve posted mostly due to an inability to practice. I am attaching an image of a practice plate I working on. It is the Marine Corps Eagle Globe & Anchor. The image was lightly etched on the plate and engraved thus far using a Lindsay Palm control with a universal parallel graver. My question is besides practice is there a better graver for cutting the fine lines in the feathers and the rope? I am particularly happy with the globe.

 

[Rannis]

I want to clarify this isn’t done yet. The banner and rope on the bottom of the anchor is awaiting finishing until I’ve improved my finer line skills. Just looking for advice on graver point choices for such work

 

[monk]

you may get several different answers. for me the 90 square worked well

 

[Rannis]

you may get several different answers. for me the 90 square worked well

I have the square and knife template I’ll give them a shot.

 

[thughes]

Rannis,
Just my opinion, but for me it's more about control than it is the graver geometry. I shade with a 116 - 120. It takes practice, but when you get it down, you don't have to cut nearly as deep to get a nicely tapered shade line. Just what works for me tho.

 

[FANCYGUN]

I use a sq 90 degree graver sharpened to a 50 degree face and 12 degree heel. Use a light touch as you engrave and keep it sharp I do not daub the point for banknote work I also like the 105 sharpened the same way

 

[JJ Roberts]

The 90 degree is also good graver for removing the back groung. J.J.

 

[JKRice]

I use a sq 90 degree graver sharpened to a 50 degree face and 12 degree heel. Use a light touch as you engrave and keep it sharp I do not daub the point for banknote work I also like the 105 sharpened the same way

Thanks, your added point angles and light touch will help me also. I too struggle with achieving fine lines. Jerry

 

[EngraverHand]

Personally I use my 116 degree graver with 45 face for everything. Same graver for outline and shading. I think it´s more about controlling the graver.

 

[JKRice]

Thanks, your added point angles and light touch will help me also. I too struggle with achieving fine lines. Jerry

I like the 50 degree face angle. How can I achieve a 12 degree heel angle? The sharpening templates are Lindsay. Thanks, Jerry

 

[FANCYGUN]

I don't use the Lindsay templates They are good but set to one setting each
I use the GRS fixtures as I can adjust them to different settings as needed

 

[FANCYGUN]

Practice and control is everything regardless of the finite point settings

 

[Tim Wells]

Don't get too hung up on angles per se, but rather think about what you are trying to accomplish. If you want a narrower groove then a narrower graver point in general is needed. You can make those feather lines with your universal or 120 or whatever you did the rest of it with, it's all in the touch. But, in your case, a 90 would be helpful and easier to control. Look at the lines across your globe, they are not straight or consistent in depth. Practice that part, straight lines which are not easy and stick out like a sore thumb when they're not. Do a plate full of them until they are all the same depth and width all the way down their lengths. When you can do that boring practice toward that end result, it'll show up in every cut make for the rest of your life.