Question: Andu Bulino pen quality??

Mike576

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Nov 20, 2020
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263
Location
Ledyard Connecticut
Anyone have experience with the Andu pneumatic bulino pen?

I have been getting into bulino and scrimshaw a lot this last year and use my Lindsay classic for light powered stippling. Works pretty well but I thing the pen shape form factor would be more ergonomic.
For most of the work I use just a graver handle with a phill coogan bulino point or a rounded point.

Is the quality good? Does it hold up? Does it have a fine level of control?

First photo is of the tool, other photos are my recent work to show what type of things I would use it for. All are finished pieces other than the peregrine falcon I’m working on now.

Thanks for any advice and input.
 

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Meshach

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Joined
Jul 22, 2023
Messages
48
If you have access to any basic machine tools you could just make a slender pen-like back for your Lindsay classic.. probably need a piece of 5/8 " rod, could be steel, but brass would be easier to shape if you have to do it with hand tools.. it just needs to be to large enough to put a 1/2" flat bottomed hole in one end, the hole in the mushroom shaped handle on it is about 9/16" deep but you could probably get away with as little as 1/4" if you like, needs to be kept pretty air tight machining an O-ring into it would be best but you could always use a little grease or electrical tape if need be.. after you do that and drill/tap a set-screw you can shape the rod down to whatever size/shape you want..
That way you have all the control of the Lindsay with a more ergonomic drawing type grip for stippling.
..Hmm think I have a new midnight project to go build..
 

Mike576

Elite Cafe Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2020
Messages
263
Location
Ledyard Connecticut
If you have access to any basic machine tools you could just make a slender pen-like back for your Lindsay classic.. probably need a piece of 5/8 " rod, could be steel, but brass would be easier to shape if you have to do it with hand tools.. it just needs to be to large enough to put a 1/2" flat bottomed hole in one end, the hole in the mushroom shaped handle on it is about 9/16" deep but you could probably get away with as little as 1/4" if you like, needs to be kept pretty air tight machining an O-ring into it would be best but you could always use a little grease or electrical tape if need be.. after you do that and drill/tap a set-screw you can shape the rod down to whatever size/shape you want..
That way you have all the control of the Lindsay with a more ergonomic drawing type grip for stippling.
..Hmm think I have a new midnight project to go build..
Not sure why I didn’t think of this! Looks like I have a lathe project now. Thanks for the tip!
 

JJ Roberts

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Nov 10, 2006
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Here are the tools I made with pin vises for stippling and Bulino engraving.
J.J.
 

Meshach

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Joined
Jul 22, 2023
Messages
48
This is what I cane up with last night,
Looks/feels like it should work out pretty good. about 2.625 inches long with a .5 blind hole .5 deep with o-ring seal and a setscrew to lock into the indexing detent on the Lindsay body. Probably need to shorten my setscrew a tad and I left the back portion solid and may drill it out if the weight doesn't feel right, but I figured the slightly larger mass just makes the tool more stable if it's not unruly to handle.
I had thought about doing something like this before for stippling but just never got around to it..
20240718_183124.jpg 20240718_183107.jpg 20240718_012615.jpg
 

Sageoconnell

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Jul 8, 2022
Messages
36
I wonder if an old airbrush could be converted on the front end with a piston attachment allowing you to still use the stock plunger to control the air to drive it all.
 

Meshach

Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2023
Messages
48
I wonder if an old airbrush could be converted on the front end with a piston attachment allowing you to still use the stock plunger to control the air to drive it all.
Might be worth a shot, but one thing to keep in mind is that most airbrushs dont have a lot of control of airflow, that's mostly in the regulator, typically it's just a press for air on and you have control of paint flow via a needle and seat in the handpiece. Still, a thought though because there may be a 'simple' way to change that.. I wonder how air tight that needle and seat are for the paint...
 

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