execellent work. mindful of the great foto-tutorial you did on this very subject. i'm curious about using the file. how do you assure that each follow-up stroke doesn't do any collateral damage ? or is this done in a single stroke of your file ? just curious, barry, as i've never used one of these files.
It's not easy. Remember the old TWA logo?
You have to pretend you are following that design to make it look straight.
Straight across the middle, convexly curved further out.
How do you ensure that you stop at the mark? My imagination is saying: 1) it's under the file, and 2) the file is wide and straight, but the edges of the design are curved. Can you help me get a grasp on this?
Thanks peter, it is reasonably easy once you have done a few.
Beat hard, it's judgement and experience.
The layout just keeps you in the ballpark.
Dan, either works, but it should match the engraving on the balance of the rifle.
You use no special 'technique'? I've found when using a file if I do not want to cross a 'line' I set the file up to the line while filing away from myself (pushing), seems when I pull I tend to overshoot. It appears you start at the line and cut the furrows back to the other side, do you then use the furrows to guide the file while pushing the file from the layout line on that side? That would be my modus operandi but you have such vast knowledge and skill I'm sure you have a more effective procedure or maybe a magic marker.
Bob, you are correct, files push much better than they pull,
Especially checkering files.
I can't remember ever not knowing how to use a file, so I probably do things that I don't even think about.
Having done my share of handwork with files on watch parts, I know the tedious nature of such ventures. One slip, and you're done. With a power checkering head, mistakes can occur in a split second. But, such a head can be a time saver, and the checkering file is for uniformity. I'm not doubting that the old timers did it with one, single file although it took longer. For such ventures, I'd advise getting a bunch of soft steel balls, and get started. . .there's no other way. Handwork is going to be necessary to finish things up, and blend things in. Plus, you'll need to "soften" up the sharp edges, as I have S&W Model 29 with hammer spur checkering (factory) that's so sharp that it'll draw blood. I've got to try a few to get my feel back, and it looks like it'll be a lot of fun. . .no swear words, as I won't be doing any bolt handles for a while. Also, the cost of cutters undoubtedly isn't a give away, and how about resharpening? The TiN coatings are nice, but eventually you'll need to resharpen, or replace. Looks like the powerheads would help for volume work, but they're beyond my budget. Still, it looks like fun!