michaelp
Elite Cafe Member
has anyone used a canon inkjet all in one for doing transfers?
canon printers for transfers
- Thread starter michaelp
- Start date
Tim Wells
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
No but you can use any printer with this method. This has been going around since the FEGA show and it's something Paul Hamler discovered recently and "proved" to me a few weeks ago.
Use the plain old transparencies made for Xerox machines that are made to use on overhead projectors, or just the slick side of your inkjet transparencies. Print what you want and take some magic tape or packing tape and pick up the ink by placing it over the image or whatever and rubbing with your finger; no need to burnish as the ink is still quite wet.
Carefully lift the tape and try to keep it from curling as you lift the last bit of it from the film, you'll find out what I mean. On the metal either use Tom's Transfer magic or a yellow sharpie to coat the area and then simply lay the tape down and rub it lightly with a burnisher. Slowly pull the tape and you should have a very detailed image that will meet or exceed the quality of the Epson ink and film method and a whole lot cheaper and convenient. Plus you can wipe it off your film with alcohol and use it again.
That lettering sample brass plate I had with me at the show was done that way; for those of you that saw and critiqued it. Give it a try and set yourself free from chasing all these printers, inks, and touchy techniques.
Use the plain old transparencies made for Xerox machines that are made to use on overhead projectors, or just the slick side of your inkjet transparencies. Print what you want and take some magic tape or packing tape and pick up the ink by placing it over the image or whatever and rubbing with your finger; no need to burnish as the ink is still quite wet.
Carefully lift the tape and try to keep it from curling as you lift the last bit of it from the film, you'll find out what I mean. On the metal either use Tom's Transfer magic or a yellow sharpie to coat the area and then simply lay the tape down and rub it lightly with a burnisher. Slowly pull the tape and you should have a very detailed image that will meet or exceed the quality of the Epson ink and film method and a whole lot cheaper and convenient. Plus you can wipe it off your film with alcohol and use it again.
That lettering sample brass plate I had with me at the show was done that way; for those of you that saw and critiqued it. Give it a try and set yourself free from chasing all these printers, inks, and touchy techniques.
Tim,
If I understand the method you described, it sounds like you would want to print a "front side" or normal image rather than a reversed image as most of the other transfer techniques require. Is this the case?
Thanks
Gary
If I understand the method you described, it sounds like you would want to print a "front side" or normal image rather than a reversed image as most of the other transfer techniques require. Is this the case?
Thanks
Gary
threefingerdave
Elite Cafe Member
Tim,
Thanks for explaining that
what is the work time from the time of printing to the time of lifting it with the tape and transferring.
Thank you
Dave
Thanks for explaining that
what is the work time from the time of printing to the time of lifting it with the tape and transferring.
Thank you
Dave
michaelp
Elite Cafe Member
Tim, thank you. great info this helps alot
Tom Curran
Elite Cafe Member
If I do this, I get WAY too much ink on my transfer......should I play with the settings to deposit less ink?
FANCYGUN
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
I just ran out of the Hammermill transparencie paper that I get from Walmart.
It seems that they dont carry that brand anymore and i bought a pack of "Printworks" trancsparencies that they now sell. Just letting everyone know that this brand seems to transfer just fine with my HPC3140 all in one printer.
It seems that they dont carry that brand anymore and i bought a pack of "Printworks" trancsparencies that they now sell. Just letting everyone know that this brand seems to transfer just fine with my HPC3140 all in one printer.
Hi Mike.
After having clogging problems with an Epson CX86 printer I found that the HP 5610 all-in-one using HP#56 Black ink and the Transfer Magic system makes good transfers, even without Epson brand film.
It also works very well using the Paul Hamler method of printing to the slick side of any type of transparency.
You can even put some shipping tape on plain paper if you don't have any transparencies.
Print your design to the tape area of the paper and pick up the slightly wet ink image using Paul's tape-to-tape method.
This is very much the same method that we have used for years to transfer reverse half images by filling the cuts with ink or wax and either white or black powder and then doing a tape-to-tape transfer.
Not as durable as Transfer Magic method but OK if you learn not to drag your hand. A little dusting of the metal with talc or corn starch helps to dry the ink and make it a little more durable.
Just my thoughts, John B.
After having clogging problems with an Epson CX86 printer I found that the HP 5610 all-in-one using HP#56 Black ink and the Transfer Magic system makes good transfers, even without Epson brand film.
It also works very well using the Paul Hamler method of printing to the slick side of any type of transparency.
You can even put some shipping tape on plain paper if you don't have any transparencies.
Print your design to the tape area of the paper and pick up the slightly wet ink image using Paul's tape-to-tape method.
This is very much the same method that we have used for years to transfer reverse half images by filling the cuts with ink or wax and either white or black powder and then doing a tape-to-tape transfer.
Not as durable as Transfer Magic method but OK if you learn not to drag your hand. A little dusting of the metal with talc or corn starch helps to dry the ink and make it a little more durable.
Just my thoughts, John B.
michaelp
Elite Cafe Member
John, thank you. making your own transparencies from paper and tape. I know that there are some creative people on this forum, but I'm always blown away what creative people will do to get the job done. and get it done they do. I'm going to get some transfer magic also,sounds like everyone gets good results. thanks again. cheers
Tim Wells
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Yep that's right. I forgot to put that in there, sorry for any confusion.
The ink wil eventually dry on the transparency but that time varies with ink type. I wait a few minutes before I put the tape to it. If I don't want to wait I either blow on it or simply don't use much pressure on the tape, it really doesn't need to be rubbed. If you do rub it , the ink will have a tendency to spread, making the lines wider. I never have tried to mess with the settings on my printer other than setting them to the instructions Tom gives with his transfer magic.
If you want less ink I would think that you could change the quality setting if your printer or software has that parameter. Maybe if you choose "good" quality rather than "best" it'll deposit less ink? Try laying the tape down and just touch it to make sure the entire image is picked up but if you do it right, this step really isn't necessary, just lay it there and pick it up. If you rub too hard the tape is hard to pull off, particularly the packing tape.
Marty, thanks for speaking up about that film at wally world, I was wondering if that brand would work, just hadn't got around to experimenting with that yet. Thanks for that seminar too, I learned a good bit and have alread put that to use.
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KCSteve
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Haven't tried this yet, but when I do I'll probably prepare the 'lifting' tape by folding a bit under at each end (to make a handle) and 'parking' it on a piece of wax paper.
That way I can easily lift it off the wax paper, lay it against the printout, and then lift it back off with the captured ink. Having a 'handle' at each end should keep it from curling (assuming I can use my hand / elbow / something heavy to hold down the sheet I'm taking the ink from).
That way I can easily lift it off the wax paper, lay it against the printout, and then lift it back off with the captured ink. Having a 'handle' at each end should keep it from curling (assuming I can use my hand / elbow / something heavy to hold down the sheet I'm taking the ink from).
KCSteve.
I always make "handles" on the tape, like you said. It sure makes it easier to work with.
Also, tape the original wet print to a flat surface before picking the image up with another tape.
Much easier than fighting with two sticky tapes.
I find it best to also stick the new piece of packing tape to my bench with the glue side up.
Just a little dab of Scotch tape at each end and lightly wipe the glue side with a bar of soap.
Then use this tape to pick up the transfered image.
This stops the tape from sticking too firmly and distorting the image while seperating them.
Just my thoughts, John B.
I always make "handles" on the tape, like you said. It sure makes it easier to work with.
Also, tape the original wet print to a flat surface before picking the image up with another tape.
Much easier than fighting with two sticky tapes.
I find it best to also stick the new piece of packing tape to my bench with the glue side up.
Just a little dab of Scotch tape at each end and lightly wipe the glue side with a bar of soap.
Then use this tape to pick up the transfered image.
This stops the tape from sticking too firmly and distorting the image while seperating them.
Just my thoughts, John B.
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