Demagnetizing gravers
- Thread starter mbroder
- Start date
Powderhorn
Elite Cafe Member
MBRODER;
It is about the only thing that you can do. An alternative, if you have one, is to use a Weller type soldering iron. Turn on the iron, and pass your graver in between the arms, then with draw it slowly away from it with the power still on, till you get a foot or so away.
The best way is to use one of the watchmakers demag units. Look on Ebay, I've seen them there.
Some types of steel can be slowly be magnetized over time, by impact. So that after a period of time you have to demag them.
It is about the only thing that you can do. An alternative, if you have one, is to use a Weller type soldering iron. Turn on the iron, and pass your graver in between the arms, then with draw it slowly away from it with the power still on, till you get a foot or so away.
The best way is to use one of the watchmakers demag units. Look on Ebay, I've seen them there.
Some types of steel can be slowly be magnetized over time, by impact. So that after a period of time you have to demag them.
Last edited:
mbroder
Elite Cafe Member
Thanks Powderhorn,
I think I'll try ebay. They want $72.00
at Stuller.
I think I'll try ebay. They want $72.00
at Stuller.
mbroder
Elite Cafe Member
I only have a regular soldering iron, not the gun type. Nothing to pass the graver through. Oh well!! If it works as well as a watchmaker's demagnetizer, maybe I should buy a soldering gun instead. It must be cheaper.
Mark, Harbor Freight has one for just a few dollars.
Plus they are on sale in their latest sales flyer.
Page 34, item 05932-7AYH, $2.99.
1-800-432-2567. www.HarborFreight.com
Plus they are on sale in their latest sales flyer.
Page 34, item 05932-7AYH, $2.99.
1-800-432-2567. www.HarborFreight.com
mbroder,
I purchased one of those little de magnetizers and it did not work for me as it magnetizes as well.
The soldering gun at HF in the link below for 9.95 is like the one I use.
gailm
Shortcut to: http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=soldering+gun&Submit=Go
I purchased one of those little de magnetizers and it did not work for me as it magnetizes as well.
The soldering gun at HF in the link below for 9.95 is like the one I use.
gailm
Shortcut to: http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=soldering+gun&Submit=Go
mbroder
Elite Cafe Member
Thanks Gail and John
Yeah, I bought the cheap demagnetizer from harbor freight. It doesn't work at all. I will definitely try the $9.99 gun from harbor freight. They have a showroom about 15 miles from shop. I'll get one on Friday. Thanks for the tip.
Yeah, I bought the cheap demagnetizer from harbor freight. It doesn't work at all. I will definitely try the $9.99 gun from harbor freight. They have a showroom about 15 miles from shop. I'll get one on Friday. Thanks for the tip.
fegarex
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
I've never had much luck with the small demagetizers or the soldiering gun either.
Like Peter E, I bought a commercial one similar to the one from Enco. If you are going to be an engraver just bite the bullet and get a good one. I engrave mostly steel and nothing is worse than chips sticking to the point of the graver.
Like Peter E, I bought a commercial one similar to the one from Enco. If you are going to be an engraver just bite the bullet and get a good one. I engrave mostly steel and nothing is worse than chips sticking to the point of the graver.
vanknife
Elite Cafe Member
For the more adventurous guys have a look at this link.
http://www.antennex.com/hws/ws0300/magdemag.htm
Cheers
"VAN"
http://www.antennex.com/hws/ws0300/magdemag.htm
Cheers
"VAN"
Last edited:
Want a cheap demagnitizer? You are gonna' love this. I took the armateur out of an old small motor (one that the bushings are worn out on) and put an off and on switch on it and it works pretty good.
Put the tool into and almost through (except for the handle) the hole where the armateur was, but don't let it touch the sides, so you have to hold it firmly in the middle of the space. Turn on the switch and withdraw it slowly and smoothly until it clears the hole about a foot. Turn it off and Repeat the process about three times and you should be good to go.
Ron S
Put the tool into and almost through (except for the handle) the hole where the armateur was, but don't let it touch the sides, so you have to hold it firmly in the middle of the space. Turn on the switch and withdraw it slowly and smoothly until it clears the hole about a foot. Turn it off and Repeat the process about three times and you should be good to go.
Ron S
KCSteve
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Ron indirectly touches on something that could be the problem you're having with the inexpensive units - technique matters.
'De' Magnatizers aren't really any different from Magnatizers, you just use them differently.
Put something in there for a few minutes with the power on and they'll do a dandy job of magnatizing it.
Do the slow steady pull-out and they'll de magnatize it.
Actually, they're always magnatizing the object. But (most of them) are flipping the orientation at 60hz (50hz in some countries). 'Soak' the whole object in the field and you'll get a fairly uniform field built up. Turn off the power and it will 'freeze' the way it is. Ok, some parts will be one way and some another - that's why they only do a fair job of magnatizing. But if you slowly pull the object out of the magnetic field well, as the field strength drops below the critical level to flip the domains you're left with some pointing this way, some pointing that way, and others pointing somewhere else. In other words, a scrambled up mess of domains that don't produce a noticable field (otherwise known as 'de-magnatized'). It's that slow fading of the rapidly flipping field that does the trick.
'De' Magnatizers aren't really any different from Magnatizers, you just use them differently.
Put something in there for a few minutes with the power on and they'll do a dandy job of magnatizing it.
Do the slow steady pull-out and they'll de magnatize it.
Actually, they're always magnatizing the object. But (most of them) are flipping the orientation at 60hz (50hz in some countries). 'Soak' the whole object in the field and you'll get a fairly uniform field built up. Turn off the power and it will 'freeze' the way it is. Ok, some parts will be one way and some another - that's why they only do a fair job of magnatizing. But if you slowly pull the object out of the magnetic field well, as the field strength drops below the critical level to flip the domains you're left with some pointing this way, some pointing that way, and others pointing somewhere else. In other words, a scrambled up mess of domains that don't produce a noticable field (otherwise known as 'de-magnatized'). It's that slow fading of the rapidly flipping field that does the trick.
Gosh Steve, you make me sound real smart..............This was just one of my goofball ideas a number of years back. I really didn't know what I was doing, but now that you say so, it sounds really good to me. And it even works, but I think your quote "Ron indirectly touches" should be......... Ron accidentally fell into something. Ha Ha
pappy
Elite Cafe Member
Ron,
You are very smart! I have a background as a machinist and plant maintenance man and I know a lot about motors and electrical devices and I still didnt think about that. While we are on thesubject, I wonder how the coil from a 110v solenoid would work. I will have to look in my buddy's junk box. If all else fails, he has a big demagnetizer that you use for steel parts that have become magnetized from magnetic chucks and such. It is a big unit, about12" square, and you just lay the parts on it and it turns the field on and off rapidly. I have a little magnetizer by Wiha for small parts but it doesn't work too well. Someone told me Radio Shack used to sell a bulk tape eraser that looked like the unit from Stull. It might be worth looking into.
pappy
You are very smart! I have a background as a machinist and plant maintenance man and I know a lot about motors and electrical devices and I still didnt think about that. While we are on thesubject, I wonder how the coil from a 110v solenoid would work. I will have to look in my buddy's junk box. If all else fails, he has a big demagnetizer that you use for steel parts that have become magnetized from magnetic chucks and such. It is a big unit, about12" square, and you just lay the parts on it and it turns the field on and off rapidly. I have a little magnetizer by Wiha for small parts but it doesn't work too well. Someone told me Radio Shack used to sell a bulk tape eraser that looked like the unit from Stull. It might be worth looking into.
pappy
Sponsors
