derby cover

monk

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i did the skull layout first. that was to be surrounded with flames. the guy called to request a change in plans. he wanted "frosting" instead of flames. i've never stippled such a huge area before. what's the best way to stipple this background ? once finished, he wants the background colored black. :(
 

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RedfordTrails

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Mask and blast for sure! Blue automotive masking tape works pretty well. My hand cramps on big stipple jobs with the 901 hand piece, but I saw a wand shaped hand piece from GRS. I wonder if that would be better for hours of stippling?
 

Neo Dutch

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Put a dental burr in your rotary tool and dab it all over the surface.

 

Sam

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Tira uses a small ball bur as a stippling point for large areas on bike parts. It works exceptionally well.
 

Tira

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Yup, I have done that kind of stippling, but..... I usually price it into the job. It usually takes me 3X more to stipple the background than it takes just to engrave. Sometimes, if the customer agrees, you can use a flat and do the western type wriggle cuts in the area. You will have to plan how you want the "lines" in the wriggle layout (i.e. following the leaf structure, straight across, etc.) and I would see if the customer likes it on a practice area before committing. Also, and this is important, the wriggle tends not to be too deep so be aware of what the final step will be. If it is going to a heavy handed chromer then the wriggle or stipple won't work too well because it will be covered. Then the ball bur like Neo Dutch recommends will work well. Be careful to look at it in a variety of planes when you are done so you don't leave "white" space.

Good luck Monk!
 

monk

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uncle jim- it's an aluminum alloy.
neo dutch- i never thought of using a bur-- thanks. will try on some junk aluminum.
tira= it may not be evident in the foto, but the background is very lightly wriggled. althouch this is no way going to be the final finish. that's a neat idea of maybe wriggling some sort of design like you said. i have till spring to finish, so time is on my side here. as for chroming, i think that can only be done on stee. i've engraved 2 harley front fenders that were chromed. the cutting was quite deep, and the work showed nicely
 

Tira

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Monk, I have done aluminum that has been chromed many times. It's a slightly different process - can't remember what the first coating is, but if you have a good chromer it can be done.
 

monk

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thanks, tira. i learn something every time i visit here. fortunately, this one doesn't get that treatment. after seeing neo dutchs' foto , i think i'll aim for that effect. and will try to put a "ghost" image in it, maybe scrolls or something.
 

unclejim1955

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Naval Jelly left on the area for about 10 minutes and then rinsed off does a great frosted finish on aluminum. I would smooth the area first, but that's just me. Try it on a scrap piece first if you have one, it also darkens the metal a little. I'll try to attach a picture of an aluminum Henry I did that shows a treated and an untreated area. Please ignore the scratches I was calling engraving at the time, not that I'm much better now. It will show what the surface looks like after the jelly treatment. Anyway, it's a possible option.
 

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tim halloran

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Monk: I've Done A Lot Of Chromed Aluminum. If I'm Correct To Chrome Aluminum You Start With A Base Coat Of Copper, Then Bright Nickle, Then A Flash Of Chrome So The Nickle Won't Tarnish. They Call It Triple Chrome. Just Make Sure The Chromer Does Not Buff It On A Wheel With Compound, Because They Will Ruin The Engraving. One Of The Best Outfits I Know Of Is Browns Plating In Paducah Kentucky, They Specialize In Motor Cycle Chroming.
 

monk

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tim- this guy wants the background black. his idea of "frosting" was either wriggling or punch dot. as you see there, it is wriggled, but that is not even close to what i'll end up doing. the wriggling shown is just to set it off from the skull. thanks, everybody for the info.
 

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