Question: Engraving a hand gun

[Sgwiley]

Hi,

I would like to try engraving my boyfriends handgun for practice. He will let me. That's love☺

Question. It is a Smith and Wesson. The handle and the barrel get in the way. Do engravers take guns apart to engrave or do you work around the high and low parts?

I know I am in over my head. If this question is answered elsewhere, please refer me.

Thanks!

 

[wowilson]

Don't get in a rush to cut on a gun, you'll regret it. There is much to know before you get there. When you're ready for gun work you'll already know the answers to the question you're asking. Take your time, enjoy the journey!

 

[Riflesmith]

I, myself, completely dismantle the firearm and polish the surfaces making sure all the mating surfaces match and and fit together. It can be a long arduous task but it has to be done assembling and disassembling to ensure as perfect a fit as possible. All metal finishing I do is done by hand with files and sand paper. If you don't know how to do it its best to find someone who can or can teach you. JMO

 

[oiseau metal arts]

yes.... they are taken apart.

I'm not going to be the only one to suggest this.
practice the design on paper several times first.....
then try it out on a flat sheet of brass, or mild steel before ever touching the graver to the gun.

messing up on something like that will render the gun unsellable , and that's a steep price for a "practice plate"

 

[Sgwiley]

Okay...so I messed it up already by creating a little engraving line to experiment. Crap. Anyone looking for a girlfriend? Ha. Just kidding

New question. Can small scratches on gun be removed and where can you get that done?

 

[oiseau metal arts]

post a pic of how bad it is..... up close and detailed pic.

 

[Sgwiley]

Eh

It's bad.

 

[Ron Spokovich]

There's a way to fix it, but it's an arduous task. I'm just going but what I see, given the quality of the photo. If that's an aluminum framed Smith, an exceptional TIG welder can repair the gouges on the disassembled gun. If that's one of the new scandium alloyed guns, it may or may not be a different story. Do NOT take the gun to some local 'Bubba', where you see a bunch of empty beer cans laying around. A good TIG man can take it down to a few amps, which is what yu need. I'd follow the advise previously mentioned herein, get lots of practice first. Then, get it fixed, and hand finish. I can't tell if the gun's had its finished removed, as the name is still seen. The old models were anodized, but maybe the new one's are grey finished. . .don't know. Handle the job right, and it'll come out OK.

 

[dlilazteca]

Haha, "anyone looking for a girl friend" that is a good one had me rolling, seems you have a great sense of humor.

All i can say is that is one expensive practice plate, but if engraving guns is your passion you will learn and ruin that gun, but to me it was the best thing i ever did, when I did it. Its your life on the line and if you think its worth it, then dive right in.

How are you holding it to engrave it? I would remove the cylinder to let you work that area. You will find out pretty soon that to complete a scroll you will have to cut it in both directions and have them meet because you will not be able to complete your rotation because of the different surfaces that a firearm provides.

Depending on how deep the cut is you might be able to burnish it out, if so and its a big if, you will have created a shiney area that your burnisher will create, thus now it would look different from the rest of the area, then what? You see how this is a big headache but also a great opportunity to learn, there is a lesson in everything.

Here is you next lesson, learn to use the search function based of others help.

I did a searh for burnishing this was one of the hits start to read and practice these tips on a practice plate first, if you're able to correct them on a practice plate you might have good success on your firearm.

http://www.engraverscafe.com/showthread.php?t=20003

You would have never have to even thought about this situation if you would have stuck to just a practice plate.

GunEngraver.com Guns, Knives & More

 

[zzcutter]

Do you know what kind of metal the frame of the pistol your engraving? You might want to look into that. I don't think it is steel. ZZ

 

[Toad]

That's an aluminum frame airweight smith. I have one. It has some type of anodizing on it.

 

[sam]

I wouldn't want any part of engraving anodized aluminum or anything with a finish that prohibits repairing a slip. Proceed with caution and understand that you're working without a net.

Remember that it's very, very easy to turn a $500 gun into a $100 gun with bad engraving. I know because I've done it.

 

[John B.]

The side plate of this S&W revolver is a replaceable part.
From the picture that is where all the damage has been done.
Replace the side plate and work on pencil and paper drawings and practice plates for awhile.
This Smith is not a good engraving prospect due to the anodizing.
With practice and knowledge guns are for your future.
Best of luck on your engraving journey.
John B.

 

[DakotaDocMartin]

Okay...so I messed it up already by creating a little engraving line to experiment. Crap. Anyone looking for a girlfriend? Ha. Just kidding

New question. Can small scratches on gun be removed and where can you get that done?

First of all... I think you will thank yourself a thousand times over if you do a lot of practice on practice plates and leave guns alone for a few years. As for the scratch, I think I would burnish it with a highly polished burnisher and then do a fine glass bead blast over the whole frame to made it look uniform. A Paasche Air Eraser works for that.

 

[JJ Roberts]

Sgwiley,I think you be thankful there the Engravers Cafe for advice,next time ask for advice that's what were here for before jumping on a gun,knife or any else that looks good at the moment. J.J.

 

[monk]

judging by your very questions, i'd say you're not even close to ready. doing guns is far far more problematic than jewelry, and the flat stuff many of us do. compound curves, negative curves, such as an ejector rod housing. cylinders, loading gates-- the list goes on. simply securing many of these items will give you fits. do you have a ball vise, or something to allow turning the part whilst engraving. remember-- you turn the part into your graver, not the other way around. trying to engrave a scroll spine without turning the part, not easily done unless you're standing and can walk around as you are engraving. jj and a few others work this way. i have done it, but prefer working seated. good luck.

 

[Sgwiley]

Thank you all for your posts. I appreciate the advice. I ended up doing a design inspired by Otto Carter's work and stippled over the mistakes. It actually worked out pretty well. Still finishing it up. I may post a pic after it is complete.

What a learning experience! You have to jump in sooner or later. What held me back was fear. Glad I worked through that.