Engraving, any words of advice?

[Dani Girl]

Hi everyone. I've been engraving on my own for a good year now without anyone looking over my shoulder saying you're holding the tool wrong, you're sitting wrong... etc.

So I thought I'd just post a bit and see if anyone had any words of advice on how to improve.

I'm saving up for that bigger vice and real turntable, and a drill press stand to work on. This is my current setup. The glass under the microblock makes it slide around really easy... with a little wd40 smeared accross it too.

So my current stand is cardboard box, garden paver, turntable knocked up by my friend made from a fan and some wood... microblock on top. Bits are added or removed to get the right height for the microscope.

Engraving a 440C Stainless Steel knife made by Peter Del Raso. Great knife maker and a great guy to work for. This is my second job for him. His work is outstanding.

Anyway, please describe in great detail the frowns or jaws dropping you have when you look at my setup.

 

[Dani Girl]

http://youtu.be/L3JxvfxMH3s

http://youtu.be/77FSQ8Kib2I

A couple of youtube videos uploaded as well

 

[Arnaud Van Tilburgh]

[video=youtube;L3JxvfxMH3s]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L3JxvfxMH3s&feature=youtu.be[/video]

[video=youtube;77FSQ8Kib2I]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=77FSQ8Kib2I&feature=youtu.be[/video]

why are you wearing hand gloves? Or am I missing something?

arnaud

 

[Dani Girl]

gloves

Why the gloves,

Because it got up to 7 degrees today and probably felt half that in my shed.

 

[sam]

Vibration is your worst enemy when engraving with a pneumatic handpiece or hammer & chisel, and I don't see how it can be avoided with your setup. The first thing I'd change is the cardboard box. Build something solid or get a tree stump...anything but a cardboard box. The next thing would be to get a larger vise which you say you're saving for. The microblock has very little weight and mass. But until you get the rest of your gear, my advice is to get rid of that box.

I'm not a big fan of finger-on-the-top engraving, but it appears that it's working for you. One of its drawbacks is the downward pressure from the finger that can make ultra fine lines very difficult to do. It can also cause furrows of metal on the sides of those lines. Keep an eye out for that. You might see it more in softer metals.

440C...I've only engraved it a few times and it was really tough stuff!

 

[Dani Girl]

by the way I'm heading to sydney later this month. Does anyone know any stores worth visiting, art galleries, museums, fun stuff to do? Attending knife show on the 24th.

Also still looking for drill press stand

 

[don hicks]

Dani Girl
I'm with Sam on the cardboard box issue. My vice is currently perched on top of a benchtop drill press stand sitting on a tongue and groove board floor in the upstairs of my barn. The base on this stand is small and I get a lot of rocking when I engrave. I am going to haul everything into the basement of my house before the snow flies, and put a car battery on the base to stabilize it. My advice on the drill press stand is to get a floor model with the biggest base you can and cut the post off to suit you. The table is also small and when not at the very top of the post won't allow a 10" turntable to sit centered and rotate, I'm going to attach a larger steel plate to it.
It is obvious that you love engraving to be engraving in 7 degree temp with gloves on.
Best of luck in your search for engraving needs.
Regards
Don

 

[Southern Custom]

Sam and Don said it and I'll second ( or third) it. You will not believe the difference when you switch to a more rigid setup. Anything would work better than the box. There is no need to wait till you find the perfect drill press. Even a small table or rigid stool would do the job. The next thing I would change is the glass and lubricant. I never want my vise to be able to slide while I'm working. The only time I want my vise to budge is when I move it to locate my center. I only want the rotation of the turntable. With microvise sitting on a lubricated surface, it has to move imperceptibly while you are cutting, absorbing the blow of the handpiece. Try putting your vise on a solid countertop and cutting a few lines and you will be able to feel the difference immediately. That's the feeling you want.
And you might try using a "pinch" grip for some practice cutting. You'll be amazed at the level of sensitivity you'll have. (thumb to the left and index finger the the right. For me, I don't think I could achieve really fine shading with index finger on top.
Keep it up. Looks like you are in it for life now.
Layne

 

[Dave London]

Dani
Others have covered the main issues, I want to congratulate you for the very good engraving with the limited equipment available to you at this time.:clapping: Cant wait tho see what you can do with better tools

 

[tundratrekers@mtaonline.n]

Sell the scope and buy some loupes and optivisors,use the $ for an proper workholding set up.

Even an bench vise set to swivel.

Much easier to make everything ergonomic without the scope.

Then you can work standing and be less prone to repetitive use injuries like back and neck pain from being locked into the scope for extended periods.

Proper tools(which doesn't necessarily mean GRS or lindsay) are a proper investment.

michael

P.S. Get the Beginning Engraving with Lynton McKenzie, from Brownells.
He will tell you and show you how to build your own set up for the cheapest $.

 

[Ron Spokovich]

I have to agree, in getting rid of the cardboard box, forthwith. I don't agree in getting rid of the scope, though, as if sold, it may be tough going in getting another. With my financial plight, I know that from personal experience. However, in the mean time, a temporary fix can be had for the 'bench' problem by getting a stout, 3-legged barstool, or equivalent, and fitting its three leg ends with the rubber crutch tips, not plastic. It'd keep from marring the floor, and stay where put, without wobbling. You can shorten the legs, as need be, and fasten some thick planking to the top. The 'give' in the crutch tips should be minimal, if at all, provided some weight on your temporary 'bench' is had. I see you have the major equipment there enabling you to do some good work, in addition to your skills, and if you get a larger block along the way, so much the better. The 3-legged stool, in my opinion, would be better than you now have. You might like it.

 

[Dani Girl]

graver grips

Can I trouble anyone for a picture or video on graver grips... which are best (in your opinion).

Someone mentioned pinch grip, I just can't quite picture that.

Thanks everyone,

The box is gone... I'll go dig around the shed soon for the next best thing

 

[sam]

Can I trouble anyone for a picture or video on graver grips... which are best (in your opinion).

Someone mentioned pinch grip, I just can't quite picture that.

Here you go: Graver Grip

 

[Dani Girl]

Graver grips

Thanks Sam.

That thread was a great resource. I was surprised through that thread no one brought up the subject of rsi or ergonomics.

Just looking at your hand holding in the traditional grip I feel like it would put a lot more strain on the wrist than the finger on top grip which has your hand pushing much straighter and the strain would just go straight into your forearm bone.

I have been finding that i do get that bur/lip being pushed up using the finger on top method, so I always do the forbidden and sand over lightly until I see that gone away and I can see how my shading is really going to wear. I know that it's going to get used and scratched and my customers will pull out the sandpaper. So I do it first. (Very naughty I know)

 

[Dani Girl]

Completely off topic but this is an interesting videon watching a rather skilled carver. Does anyone do this, know how it's done, what tools are necessary?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xgTpGASqrKY&index=34&list=PLF8CC9453E7798873

 

[Dani Girl]