Engraving Motorcycle Chrome

[jlseymour]

I've been ask to engrave some Harley parts and would like any info of what parts to stay away from and the reaction chrome takes from the graver...
Thanks for any help you can share...
Jerry

 

[Keith]

They have to take the chrome parts to the chrome shop to have them deplated, then they have to be polished and made ready to be chromed. After they polish the parts they give it to you to be engraved.

If you cut through the chrome you will end up with some nice little sharp chrome razors all over. I have gotten real deep cuts and didn't even feel it, just looked and wondered where all the red stuff was coming from. Make sure they don't re polish off your work either before they chrome. I did 3 weeks of work on a Harley and a mad buffer at the chrome shop ruined all my work.
Good Luck,
Keith

 

[jimzim75]

Sam, I would say this thread should go in tip Archive. Excellent post.

Jim

 

[Tira]

jlseymour,

I wrote a page about this that is already in the tip archive. It's titled "Her Favorite Color is Chrome" and is on the next to last page. I've written about the different types of chrome and the entire process.

Here is the direct link: http://www.igraver.com/forum/showthread.php?t=637

Good Luck!

 

[Brian Marshall]

When I first started engraving, I would engrave anything... go back in the archives and read the story about the elephant headpiece, for an example!

I'm guessing it would have been 30+ years ago when I was cutting some show bikes. Same thing happened. Chrome shop buffed over the engraving. I had taped a note onto the parts saying NOT to do this.

The owner of that particular bike simply told the plating shop that they would pay for the new parts and the re-engraving of those parts. If not, he would first inform every custom motorcycle shop within 200 miles of what happened, and then take them to court for damages.

They sent me new parts to engrave... and paid me again.

Brian P. Marshall
Stockton Jewelry Arts School
Stockton, CA, USA
209-477-0550
instructor@jewelryartschool.com
jewelryartschool@aol.com

 

[monk]

engraving thru chrome

dont do it. and any un chromed parts you engrave, make sure the engraving is deep. if you just do some of that dainty fainty stuff, your work will never be seen !

 

[Keith]

Tira, Great article in the archives, I will print it and put it in my album for customers to read.

Most people with Harleys lately will go through the trouble to do the prep the right way. Some have not wanted to have the parts engraved after I told them what had to be done. DO NOT let the people talk you into doing the engraving through the chrome, the hand and finger cuts aren't worth the trouble and the parts turn to junk in no time. Every time the customer polishes the bike he or she will have little pieces of polishing cloth stuck in the cuts frrom the jagged chrome. Did it on my bike......
If you just want to practice, you can go to your local Harley shop and get some damaged pieces from a bike the guy dumped to practice on. I wouldnt hesitate to do the aluminum parts. I had a shop up north Jersey, a great guy that kept me busy and handled all the chrome issues.
Later,
Keith

 

[jlseymour]

Thanks ya'll you have saved me alot trouble...
Everyone have a great holiday...
Jerry

 

[Unkl Ian]

Is all the factory Harley stuff Chrome,or Powder Coated ?

Or was some of the older stuff bare Aluminum ?

I've been looking for some stuff to practice on,seems like everything is Chrome plated..

 

[Tira]

Unkl Ian,

The factory Harley parts come in 3 different flavors. Their high end stuff is chromed, then they have highly polished to look like chrome (but it's bare metal) and then they have powder coated. There is also anodized on aluminum parts. Many of the Harley parts can be obtained in either chromed or polished. If you make nice with the local Harley shop the parts guy will be able to help you get the polished parts if they are available.

One other note about Harley parts. Many are steel - they cut great. Many are a cast pot metal - not so nice. These are gummy and soft with scattered hard spots. Unfortunatley, if you are going to do motorcycle parts you will probably have to work with the pot metals which can be fine in one casting and terrible in the next. There seems to be no way to tell until the first cut. Some aftermarket parts are billet aluminum which also cut great. Half the fun (read challenge) is trying to figure out how to navigate in the part you are in when the last time you cut a derby (or points cover, etc.) it was nothing like the one your graver is currently stuck in.

If you want a cheap way to practice large format parts that have a large curve (like a gas tank or oil tank) go to the local thrift shop and pick up an old aluminum pot for $1.00. You can clamp in in the vise and go to town. It will give you an idea of how a large part rotates - or doesn't and you will be able to practice large sweeping scrolls on a compound curved surface that travels in a 16 inch circle as the part rotates.

 

[Unkl Ian]

Aluminum pot.That's a much better idea.Thanks.

Stripping Powder Coating sounds like as much fun as stripping Chrome.

 

[SharpGraver]

Alot of the Harley parts like handlebar clamps and point covers are zinc which cuts like butter compared to the pot metal or billet stuff. I have found that if you soak the powder coated parts in carburator cleaner, from your local auto parts store, then sandblast them with baking soda the coating comes off and leaves a nice smooth surface.

David